Dresden: Dolls & a Trabant Safari

“Anarchists and bohemians made this neighbourhood what it is today,” our guide Christoph explained as we walked through the vibrant streets of Outer Neustadt in Dresden.

The area survived the devastating Allied bombs of 1945, but the grand Wilheminian terraced houses fell into disrepair after the war. It wasn’t until the 80s that artists and squatters moved into the derelict buildings and started to renovate the area.

Fairy lights twinkle in beer gardens, falafel is served from street food shacks, bright murals adorn the walls and the everywhere you look there are people drinking bottles of beer.

Outer Neustadt is the kind of neighbourhood that can make you feel like you’re in Berlin. Fairy lights twinkle in beer gardens, falafel is served from street food shacks, bright murals adorn the walls and the everywhere you look there are people drinking bottles of beer. Needless to say, the streets are lined with cafés, restaurants and cocktail bars – and almost as many bio-markets.

We visited Scheune, a socialist youth centre, which has evolved into an alternative cultural centre that hosts gigs, cabaret, theatre performances, film screenings and club nights.

“The city’s favourite cocktail? That would probably be the Caipirinha,” Christoph mused. “They even serve warm Caipirinhas at the Christmas markets!”

Sadly, I didn’t get the chance to sample a warm Caipirinha, but I did pay a visit to the unique Kunsthopassage, a residential courtyard-cum-sculptor gallery where the walls are home to monkeys, giraffes, fairy-tale mosaics and musical drains that sing in the rain.

My favourites were a glorious oversized wooden backgammon set and a spectacular Indian mogul birthday party scene comprised of 137 jewel-encrusted dolls.

The next morning, we strolled into town from the Hotel Am Terrassenufer for a tour of the city centre.

The Inner Altstadt is home to a number of magnificent renaissance and baroque monuments, such as Frauenkirche Church, Neumarkt Square, Zwinger Palace, Semper Opera House and the Royal Palace.

Also known as Dresden Castle, the Royal Palace is home to an extravagant collection of artefacts. My favourites were a glorious oversized wooden backgammon set and a spectacular Indian mogul birthday party scene comprised of 137 jewel-encrusted dolls.

We enjoyed a lunch of cherry tomatoes and garlic butter tagliatelle on board a steamboat before rocking up at Trabi World, to pick up our leopard print and rainbow coloured vintage Trabants.

…we let rip in the iconic Soviet vehicles. The engine roared, bystanders stopped and stared, the whole chassis started shaking… the speedometer barely budged an inch.

After getting to grips with the steering wheel-mounted gearstick, we let rip in the iconic Soviet vehicles. The engine roared, bystanders stopped and stared, the whole chassis started shaking… the speedometer barely budged an inch. But that didn’t matter, our anachronistic ‘safari’ of the city was brilliant fun.

On Track: Slow, Sustainable Travel

Our early morning train to Prague took in beautiful views across the River Elbe, where pine forest lay slightly obscured by the morning mist. The scenic route lasted a few hours before we arrived at the Czech capital where we changed trains and headed towards Ostrava – with big grins on our faces courtesy of some complimentary flutes of sparkling wine.

It’s not an exact science, but the average train journey emits three times less carbon emissions than a flight to the same destination. No wonder the Swedish concept of flygskam (flight shame) is spreading.

Although travelling by train is slower – my journey from London to Dresden took around 12 hours – it is much less impactful on the environment. It’s not an exact science, but the average train journey emits three times less carbon emissions than a flight to the same destination. No wonder the Swedish concept of flygskam (flight shame) is spreading.

Slower but more sustainable: our train journey was comfortable (legroom: check! table: check! free fake Champagne: check!) and gave us the freedom to explore destinations along the route. We took advantage of this during our connection from Prague to Ostrava and decided to stop in the Medieval city of Olomouc for lunch. (And if you’ve never been to Olomouc, check out Urban Travel Blog’s Long Weekend guide!)

Ostrava: Culture in Unexpected Places

Once known as the ‘Black Heart of the Czech Republic’ the city of Ostrava has undergone profound change over the past two decades. Coal mines and steelworks have shut down, trees have been planted and concerted effort has been made to clean up the city’s reputation.

“I remember how much my mother used to cough from all the pollution in the air when I was younger,” our guide Daniela said as she led us to the entrance of Lower Vitkovice, a 300-hectare, now defunct, industrial site.

“But everything is very different now. Ostrava was even a candidate for the European Green Capital 2020.”

“But everything is very different now. Ostrava was even a candidate for the European Green Capital 2020.”

The huge industrial complex is comprised of countless rusted pipes, poles and conduits, creating dramatic shapes and an almost post-apocalyptic landscape. Twisted paint and sculpture exhibits lie scattered around the site.

With the help of a lift we climbed the 71-metre Bolt Tower, named after sprinter Usain Bolt who opened the panoramic pylon in 2015. Pockets of greenery were clearly visible throughout the city, filling the gaps between roads, residential areas and abandoned factories.

With the help of a lift we climbed the 71-metre Bolt Tower, named after sprinter Usain Bolt who opened the panoramic pylon in 2015.

“Lower Vitkovice is now home to many cultural events,” Daniela explained. “There’s an exhibition centre where indie films are shown, a café, a wine bar and a space for gigs. And every year this whole site is home to the Colours of Ostrava music festival.”

Imagining the raucous excitement of 50,000 people partying inside the crazy industrial complex, I made a note to try and persuade my friends to get tickets for 2020.

We had dinner at a stylish bistro called Hogo Fogo, where hanging lightbulbs and a living wall attested to Ostrava’s cosmopolitan credentials. I enjoyed a glass of unfiltered Bernard lager and a delicious aged beef roll with rice and rich consommé. Afterwards Daniela pointed out her favourite spots in the city, such as Café Daniel, which lives incongruously on the third floor of a residential block, U Gustava, a speakeasy-style absinthe bar requiring a password for entry and the lively bars of Stodolni Street – known across the Czech Republic as ‘the street that never sleeps.’

The street may not sleep, but it was a long day and I certainly needed some rest. So, after a pint of the world famous Pilsner Urquell I retired to my comfy suite at the Hotel Club Trio.

A Dining Carriage with a View

In the morning I opened my Interrail pass and filled in my journey log for the day’s travel: Ostrava to Zilina and then Zilina to Kosice.

Of all the hundreds of miles of track I covered on the trip, this was the most rousing. We passed picturesque bridges, fast-running rivers and a Medieval castle nestled among the dramatic peaks of the High Tatra mountain range – all from the comfort of the dining carriage with a plate of breaded cheese and a glass of Kelt, Slovakian lager.

We passed picturesque bridges, fast-running rivers and a Medieval castle nestled among the dramatic peaks of the High Tatra mountain range…

There were more beers and Slovakian delicacies on the menu when we arrived in Kosice.

Kosice: Craft Beer & Creative Spaces

Kosice’s quaint old town is clearly demarcated by the city’s medieval walls, while the skyline is dominated by the 59-metre high Gothic St. Elisabeth Cathedral.

The pedestrianised – and innovatively named – Main Street is home to many of the city’s premier cafés, bars and restaurants. It’s also home to the romantic spectacle of the singing fountains, a beautiful water fountain sandwiched between St Elisabeth and the State Opera House that moves in time to music booming out of speakers in nearby trees. It’s mostly classical music, but I was also privy to an unexpected rendition of East 17’s Stay Another Day.

It’s also home to the romantic spectacle of the singing fountains, a beautiful water fountain sandwiched between St Elisabeth and the State Opera House that moves in time to music booming out of speakers in nearby trees.

“There is actually a DJ, stationed underneath the fountain, who is in charge of all the songs,” our guide Veronika explained as we took the short stroll from Hotel Bristol to Hostinec, a medieval pub.

Operating in some form or another as a restaurant since 1542, Hostinec is the 7^th oldest continuously running restaurant in the world. Blessed with an inventory of attractive period fittings, wooden furnishings and evocative stained-glass windows, the craft beer bar is an accomplished marriage of trend and tradition.

“This is our bestseller,” owner and head brewer Peter said, as he filled our goblets with a strong golden ale. “We experiment a lot but this and one other house beer are always on tap upstairs in the bar.”

Our tour of the brewery covered how the different ingredients affect the flavour of the beer and culminated in a deliciously comforting sharing plate of beer braised beef, crispy cod, home fries and gooey fried cheese.

After dinner we stopped off for a glass of wine at a tongue-in-cheek, separatist bar. Republic of the East claims independence from Western Slovakia and the influence of capital city Bratislava, but I’m glad to report there were no passport checks at the door.

Cured meats, salty sheep cheese, rich duck-liver pâté, robust garlic soup and a trio of freshly baked breads were served alongside halusky, a Slovakian specialty of potato dumplings smothered in sheep cheese.

The next morning, we climbed the tower at St. Elisabeth Cathedral and viewed the red roofs of the city from above before visiting Villa Regia for a traditional feast. Cured meats, salty sheep cheese, rich duck-liver pâté, robust garlic soup and a trio of freshly baked breads were served alongside halusky, a Slovakian specialty of potato dumplings smothered in sheep cheese. Homemade lavender lemonade and flaming shots of Slivovica accompanied the banquet.

After lunch we stopped in at a literature festival that happened to be taking place at the independent cinema, Kino Usmev, on the way to Tabacka Kulturfabrik.

Set in the skeleton of an old tobacco factory, Tabacka is a powerhouse of a cultural centre. Decorated with bright murals and off the cuff pieces of art, it is a one stop shop for all things creative.

“We hold concerts, language cafés, experimental theatre, electro parties, yoga, ecstatic dance, everything really. The space has life of its own,” explained general manager Katarina “It seems to evolve in response to whoever is using it.”

We sampled the locally brewed ‘Moustache Beer’ at the bar and explored the labyrinth of studios, performance areas and co-working spaces. You could easily spend a whole day at Tabacka: coffee on the terrace, lunch and a laptop in the café, catch a performance in the evening and then get to know the local creatives over a beer in the bar – there’s even a hostel on-site.

A Toast to Lesser Known Destinations

On the final night of our Interrail adventure, we visited the atmospheric, candlelit Tokaj Macik wine cellar. The world renowned Tokaji wine region, shared between Hungary and Slovakia, was the first in the world to receive appellation control and is celebrated for its ability to produce extremely sweet wines due to a process known as ‘noble rot.’

Indeed, many nobles such as Queen Victoria, Beethoven and Goethe have waxed lyrical about the wine over the years, and I must concur: it’s delicious.

During the high-spirited tasting, in which the spit bucket was seldom used, we raised a toast to train travel. A more sustainable way to travel that connects you with brilliant lesser known destinations like Dresden, Ostrava and Kosice.

Josh was invited on this sustainable travel trip by Interrail, in partnership with the tourism boards of Dresden, Ostrava and Kosice. All opinions are his own. 

About Josh Ferry Woodard

Josh Ferry Woodard is a freelance travel writer based in London. You can find his work on sites such as Reader's Digest, Huffington Post, Roads & Kingdoms, Slate, Paste, Spotted By Locals & many more.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(10)

The post Exploring Central Europe By Train appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

“Here in Lithuania, everybody forages for mushrooms and berries,” said our guide Benas, as we walked through the cobbled streets of Vilnius old town, towards Amandus restaurant for lunch. “We always say that you can eat all mushrooms – just that some of them (the poisonous ones!) you can eat only once in your life.”

As the last Pagan nation in Europe to convert to Christianity and, with 33% of the country covered in forest, it is unsurprising that foraging remains a big part of daily life in Lithuania.

A Lithuanian friend of mine once told me, proudly, of how when he was younger he would spend all day searching the woodlands behind his grandmother’s house for mushrooms to sell. “One bag to pay for a ride at the fun fair, one bag to pay for a girl to ride with me,” said Povi. “And another bag to buy a couple of beers!”

On arrival at Amandus I was given the chance to get my hands on some mushrooms of my own. Luckily, these were porcini mushrooms – meaning it was not a once in a lifetime opportunity – however these foraged fungi did look completely different to any mushrooms I had seen before. Through some feat of gastronomic sorcery they had been turned into thin discs with a similar texture to meringue. I was tasked with breaking these mushroom discs into smaller shapes and pressing them together with goat cheese into fancy sandwiches.

…these foraged fungi did look completely different to any mushrooms I had seen before. Through some feat of gastronomic sorcery they had been turned into thin discs with a similar texture to meringue.

The theme of fresh, local and foraged food continued with a tasting menu of reimagined traditional dishes, such as: hazelnut and apple crackling, beetroot bread, whipped smoked eel, sharp arctic cod ceviche with grapefruit and dill, melt-in-your-mouth beef cheek with seasonal pickle and liquid nitrogen raspberry purée.

Užupis: A Country Within a City 

“I’d like to show you shabby corners of Vilnius. Mess, mess, it’s a mess where you can find everything,” said Benas as we crossed the bridge from Vilnius old town into the made-up self-declared Republic of Užupis.

“Look! Look! A sculpture of an alcoholic,” said Benas before turning around and pointing at a homeless person with a bottle of spirit.

“And there’s one in real life.” 

Užupis was originally a sanctuary for marginalised elements of society during Soviet rule, and quite rundown. However, for the most part, the district has more of a bohemian vibe these days. Buildings are brightened by the pastel colours of local street artists, installations line the riverbank and speciality coffee shops neighbour craft beer houses opposite the famous Angel of Užupis statue.

The foreign ambassador [of Uzupis] is a notoriously fat cat named Ponulis that spends most of its time in Keistoteka Bookstore.

The ‘Republic’ has its own flag, currency, mayor, constitution and cabinet members. The constitution, which features important assertions such as: “Every dog has the right to be a dog,” and “Everyone has the right to appreciate their unimportance,” can be found translated into over a dozen languages on Paupio Street. The foreign ambassador is a notoriously fat cat named Ponulis that spends most of its time in Keistoteka Bookstore.

Back in the old town Benas took us to an Amber Museum, where we downed shots of amber dissolved into 999 (a strong Lithuanian spirit made from 9 roots, 9 barks and 9 herbs… The Editor is familiar with it already). And then we visited Literatu Street (a beautiful collection of over 100 artworks dedicated to Lithuanian literature) en-route to the 45-metre high ancient bell tower.

From the top of the cathedral belfry we gazed at gorgeous panoramic views of Vilnius’ cityscape of Baroque red roofs, domes and spires stretching towards the green forests on the fringe of the capital.

From the top of the cathedral belfry we gazed at gorgeous panoramic views of Vilnius’ cityscape of Baroque red roofs, domes and spires stretching towards the green forests on the fringe of the capital.

“Here in Vilnius we don’t need city parks,” said Benas. “Because we are surrounded by greenery and lakes. It only takes 30 minutes to escape into the countryside.”

Boats & Balloons at Trakai Island Castle

True to Benas’ word, it took just over half an hour to arrive in Trakai, the ancient capital of Lithuania and a popular daytrip from Vilnius.

The scenic archipelago is made up of over 200 lakes and its crowning glory is the 14th century Trakai Island Castle, a majestic Medieval palace standing in the middle of Lake Galvė.

Our examination of the castle began with a relaxing lap of its burnt orange turrets in a boat. Then we drove to a nearby field, where things really started to heat up.

A frighteningly loud flame bellowed a few inches above my head in the disconcertingly small basket, as our pilot prepared for take-off.

A frighteningly loud flame bellowed a few inches above my head in the disconcertingly small basket, as our pilot prepared for take-off.

It was a surreal, heart in mouth moment when our hot air balloon finally started to rise. Weightlessly, we floated higher and watched the people, trees and cars beneath us dissolve into tiny inconsequential shapes.

Serenely, we drifted to heights of around 1,000 metres for awesome panoramic views of Trakai’s green spiky pine forests and squiggly cloud-shaped islands. Then, as we approached the Island Castle, our pilot let us drop to what felt like touching distance of the medieval orange turrets.

After the breathtaking, truly memorable and highly recommended hot air balloon experience, we stopped by Ertlio Namas for a delectable tasting menu of centuries-old Lithuanian dishes: Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque recipes found in old manor houses and monasteries, playfully reinterpreted for the modern age.

Accomplished plates of sturgeon and eel terrine, parsnip soup with saffron and veal, pheasant breast with cranberry sauce and chocolate plum dessert were matched with tasty cider, wine and port. 

Big Stones & Eerie Crosses

After recharging at the comfortable city centre Congress Avenue hotel, we set off for Anyksciai forest, home of a very important boulder.

“Every child in Lithuania has heard of Puntukas Stone,” said our new guide Linas as we breathed in the crisp forest air, scented with pine resin and thyme. “It is the second biggest stone in Lithuania and features in a famous poem ‘The Forest of Anyksciai.’”

Walking through the forest of Anyksciai, through scores of pine, birch, maple, ash and poplar trees, we stopped to hear the rhythmic thuds of a woodpecker against a tall trunk.

Walking through the forest of Anyksciai, through scores of pine, birch, maple, ash and poplar trees, we stopped to hear the rhythmic thuds of a woodpecker against a tall trunk.

“Another interesting thing,” said Linas, pointing to a green patch of wild sorrel on the forest floor. “Is the second longest word in Lithuanian, which roughly translates to ‘those of masculine gender, who are no longer foraging for wood sorrel leaves by themselves.’”

“However, this year,” added Linas as we entered a metal treetop walkway with tremendous views of the forest. “They came up with a new word, which means ‘those who are no longer fed up by blogging.’” 

Later, not in the slightest bit fed up by blogging, we pulled up alongside a convoy of trucks filled with orchard apples for a delicious and hearty lunch at Perinos Gastrobaras. I started with a cold, creamy, pink saltibarsciai beetroot soup and a local apple wine. “I’ve had hundreds of these beetroot soups in my life and almost every one is different,” said Linas, dipping a hot potato chip into the thick soup. 

“I’ve had hundreds of these beetroot soups in my life and almost every one is different,” said Linas.

After a huge bowl of spinach, cheese and zucchini fusilli, we headed to Kalita Hill Alpine Coaster for an exhilarating toboggan ride. Three goes careening around the corners later we drove to the famous Hill of Crosses.

The landmark tells a story of rebellion. It is thought that the crosses first appeared in 1864 after a massacre carried out by the Russian Tsar. Although the Russians demolished the shrines, the local Lithuanian population endeavoured to replace them.

History began repeating itself during the Soviet era, when the hill was demolished with bulldozers at least three times. Each time the local population risked the wrath of the Soviet powers and replaced the crosses on the very same night.

History began repeating itself during the Soviet era, when the hill was demolished with bulldozers at least three times. Each time the local population risked the wrath of the Soviet powers and replaced the crosses on the very same night.

During our visit there were over 100,000 crosses laid by people from all over the world at this eerie yet compelling symbol of Lithuanian unity and rebellion.

Grilled Game, Boozy Saunas & Late Night Lake Swims

“The owner is a little obsessed with hunting,” said Linas as we arrived at Villa Dubgiris, a complex of luxury wooden cabins in a secluded lake-side location in the Mazeikiai region. “There should be some tasty meats on the menu tonight.”

We spent some time sitting on the jetty, admiring the silent blue surface of the lake before settling into our respective animal-themed rooms to get ready for dinner.

In the ‘Banquet Hall,’ a warm, rotund two-storey building with large windows, natural wooden columns and rustic fittings designed by local blacksmiths, I feasted on a succulent pink-in-the-middle roe deer steak. We also shared a plate of cured game: thin slices of salami made from venison, roe deer and wild boar.

After dinner Linas and I each took a pint of ice-cold Svyturys Ekstra Lithuanian lager into the plush Dubgiris spa. The bathhouse was kitted out with water fountains, beige sculptures and Roman mosaics.

“You know, saunas were, and still are, a massive part of Lithuanian culture,” said Linas as we sweltered in the Siberian fir-scented sauna. “They were originally created with the function of washing in mind, but they evolved to be very important socially as well.”

“You know, saunas were, and still are, a massive part of Lithuanian culture,” said Linas as we sweltered in the Siberian fir-scented sauna. “They were originally created with the function of washing in mind, but they evolved to be very important socially as well.”

Freezing winter temperatures in Medieval Lithuania meant that it was impossible for families to store water for washing. Instead they built outhouses with fire pits to bathe and cleanse. Traditionally, men would enter first, when the sauna is hottest, followed by the women and children. “These weekly gatherings are still very important for many communities,” said Linas. “This is where issues get settled.”

To cool off, we left the ancient bathing hut and tiptoed across the grass to the lake, where the swirling sparkles of the Milky Way reflected off its glassy black surface. The vastness of the icy water pulled me in and I left feeling refreshed, and slightly euphoric.

Towards Russia with Love

The next day we headed to the nearby Cold War Museum in Plokstyne. Set in an underground bunker, the museum exhibits include a timeline of the Cold War, old generator rooms and a collection of Soviet and Western propaganda.

Built in secret from the Lithuanian people during the 1960s, the Soviet nuclear missile base had enough firepower to wipe out most of Europe.

Built in secret from the Lithuanian people during the 1960s, the Soviet nuclear missile base had enough firepower to wipe out most of Europe.

When we re-emerged from the gloomy subterranean tunnel we set off for the Curonian Spit – a 98km long sand-dune strip of land that separates the Curonian Lagoon from the Baltic Sea, and connects Lithuania to the Russian territory of Kaliningrad.

Luckily, all fears of a nuclear apocalypse were cast away when we arrived at the stylish Monai restaurant in Klaipeda for a delicious lunch of autumnal seedy soup with artisan muffins and a plate of velvety cod loin in white wine sauce with al dente parsnips, potatoes and radishes.

After crossing the ferry from Klaipeda to the Spit, we drove along a forested road until we reached the Hill of Witches. “Most of these pagan wooden sculptures were built by Lithuanian artists in the summer of 1979,” said Linas as we strolled past dark wood dragons, bearded men and princesses. “The Soviets allowed them to honour Lithuania’s Pagan heritage because this area was closed off to the public. The civilian population was not able to see the transgressive sculptures.”

One particular sculpture that stood out was a black ghoul-encrusted archway with an extremely intricate and distressing devil behind it. It’s said that if you walk beneath the arch you will never return.

“Are you going under?” I asked a passer-by.

“Under that? God no!” The conviction in his reply was enough to keep me away too.

After gazing across the Curonian Lagoon at another border (the Lithuanian border with Russian Kaliningrad), we rented bicycles and explored the resort town of Nida. I worked up a hefty appetite during the scenic bike ride (and Baltic Sea swim), which was promptly satisfied by a three-course dinner of tomato and red pepper soup, bacon-wrapped chicken breast with girasole mushrooms and a pot of Eton mess at Skalva Hotel.

Street Art in Kaunas

Kaunas, Lithuania’s second city, is home to a thriving street art scene. It all started in 2013 with a bespectacled, cosmic pipe smoking fella located on the facade of an abandoned shoe factory.

It all started in 2013 with a bespectacled, cosmic pipe smoking fella located on the facade of an abandoned shoe factory.

‘The Wise Old Man’ mural kick-started a wave of street art across the city, breathing life into everything from sketchy tunnels to residential courtyards and university campuses.

“That’s actually the artist who created this gallery,” said Linas, pointing towards a man painting a black and white woman onto a lilac wall. “He began the Courtyard Gallery by painting portraits of all the residents of this block.”

The space, known as the only gallery open 24/7 in Kaunas, now features everything from colourful murals and mirrored mosaics to suspended chairs and lofty installations. Apart from becoming an important section of Kanuas’ cultural tapestry, the inventive artwork has helped foster a sense of community among the residents.

“For example, these bins are always clean now,” said Linas. “At least since that yellow cat has been watching over them.”

On the way to lunch we stopped by a gigantic pastel pink elephant, which was drawn to represent the love proclaimed in a small piece of graffiti reading: ‘Deima + Arwnas,’ plus a beautiful Leonardo da Vinci chessboard mural.

Vista Puode is another top class restaurant specialising in fresh, seasonal interpretations of traditional Lithuanian cuisine, a fitting place for my last supper in the country. I tried another portion of cold saltibarsciai soup – this one thinner and more vinegary than the last – with a tower of fried potato pancakes with sharp garlic curd and a craft IPA from Klaipeda brewery Bocmano Usai. Not a bad way to say goodbye to Lithuania.

Josh was invited on this trip as a guest of the Lithuanian Tourist Board. All opinions are his own. Don’t forget to check out all our Lithuania travel tips and stories here.

About Josh Ferry Woodard

Josh Ferry Woodard is a freelance travel writer based in London. You can find his work on sites such as Reader's Digest, Huffington Post, Roads & Kingdoms, Slate, Paste, Spotted By Locals & many more.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(10)

The post Lithuania: Hot Air Balloons & Haute Cuisine appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

“I am going to show you one of the most beautiful cities in the world,” whispered our guide Marian. “I want to show you the secret places I discovered when I was a student here at the University of Santiago de Compostela.”

The morning had been fresh and foggy, giving Galicia‘s emblematic eucalyptus forests a mystical quality as we drove through them. But as our bus pulled into Santiago de Compostela, the sun beamed down on us as if it were the height of summer and not early October.

It’s a lively city. As well as being the capital of Galicia and home to one of the world’s oldest and most respected universities (it dates back to 1495!), it’s also where the Camino de Santiago comes to an end. As one of the most famous religious hikes on the planet, it sees the arrival of almost 300,000 pilgrims per annum – a figure which continues to grow each year.

…one of the most famous religious hikes on the planet, it sees the arrival of almost 300,000 pilgrims per annum…

“And do you know what ‘Santiago de Compostela means’?” asked Marian. “It means ‘Saint James of the field of stars’.” A suitably beautiful name for this medieval jewel, which is taken from the Christian belief that a shepherd was led to the buried saint’s remains by bright stars glittering above a meadow.

After exploring the Mercado de Abastos de Santiago (a must) and the old town’s warren of lively streets, all white-washed with exposed stone and tawny roof tiles, we found ourselves in Praza do Obradoiro. This is the city’s main square and is loomed over by the gothic bell towers of the cathedral, the very place where the remains of Saint James the Great, one of Jesus Christ’s 12 apostles now lie.

I watched as pilgrims arrived, some alone and wearisome, others in groups of tearful excitement.

For the pilgrims hiking the Camino, arriving here at Praza do Obradoiro marks the end of what will have been many weeks or even months of intense introspection, awe-inspiring views and good ol’ fashioned pain.

I watched as pilgrims arrived, some alone and wearisome, others in groups of tearful excitement. I noticed non-pilgrims and watched them waiting for the loved ones to arrive. As the pilgrims hobbled into the square they’d screech with joy, waving their walking sticks in the air in a state of elation.

I was lucky to meet a Korean gentleman named Hye. He’d just walked over 800km for the second time in his life. I congratulated him and shook his hand, joking that he should do another next year. “No more Camino! No more!” he laughed.

Mavericks & Masters at Pazo de Galegos

Like much of ‘Green Spain’, Galicia is home to many beautiful palaces, or ‘pazos’ as they’re known locally. Pazo de Galegos is unquestionably one of the most interesting of them all. Nuzzled away in the countryside about 15km outside of Santiago de Compostela, this imposing country mansion harbours four hectares of vineyards and a fascinatingly layered history.

It was once the home of Antonio Lopez Ferreiro, a famous writer and canon of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. He was also a founding member of the Royal Academy of the Galician Language and, most impressively of all, responsible for the rediscovery of Saint James’ tomb.

“I do things a little bit differently to other wine producers in the region… But as I always say: my wine, my way!”

Pazo de Galegos is now the residence of Manuel Garcia and his son Pablo, who, with the help of their cuddly ginger cat called Sr. Freski, produce Galicia’s famous Albariño (white) and Mencia (red) wines.

“I do things a little bit differently to other wine producers in the region,” Pablo told us as he showed us around. “But as I always say: my wine, my way!”

Indeed, with his funky wooden sunglasses, skinny jeans and colourful shoes, he is nothing like the straw-hat and welly-wearing caricature you might envision when thinking of a traditional Spanish winemaker.

Manuel is far more what you’d imagine a charming, but no-nonsense, gentleman with the authoritarian air of a hardened headmaster to be like.

“Gather round, gather round! We haven’t got all day,” he said half-jokingly in his perfect received pronunciation, which I gather he cultivated during a period of living in London.

Centenarian Vines

“Look at this vine and tell me what you notice.”

“This vine is over 100 years,” Manuel beamed, as awed by his words as we were. “Many believe it is the oldest vine in Galicia.”

Like most of the vines in Galicia it was elevated way above our heads on huge trellises, so that the plants don’t rot in the pools of rain that form during the region’s notoriously frequent and heavy down pours. But then I realised that from its huge trunk were smaller vines sprawling out over an expanse of land about the size of my apartment. “This vine is over 100 years,” Manuel beamed, as awed by his words as we were. “Many believe it is the oldest vine in Galicia.”

Sip and Stay: As well as the excellent vineyard tour and wine tasting experience, which includes a hearty lunch, Pazo de Galegos also has a number of guest rooms, making this an ideal destination for wine lovers. Find out more here.

Another luxurious option is the Hotel Spa Relais & Chateaux a Quinta da Agua, a sublimely comfortable and romantic 4-star boutique with first-class dining and leisure facilities.

Noble Strolls and Secret Gardens

Pazo de Oca – The Versailles of Galicia

Pazo de Oca is arguably Galicia’s most famous palace. It dates back to the 12th century and was originally built as a fortress, but Fernando Gayoso, Marquis of Camarasa, turned it into the palatial residence it is today in the 18th century.

The hulking stone palace, known as ‘The Galician Versailles’, isn’t open to the public as it is still the family’s residence (can you imagine?), but the baroque gardens will transport you back in time to bygone times of melancholic romanticism.

Stroll the grounds and seek out the boating lakes, hidden romantic nooks, mazes, vegetable patches, and elegant sculptures. It’s an entire universe unto itself.

“You have to think that the noble family who owned this house lived through many difficult political times. They were hated by the people and they were scared that they would be killed if they left the property, so they lived their entire lives here in these gardens and in the palace,” Marian explained when I asked if they really needed quite so much land.

Pazo de Rubianes – Noble Wines

Equally as impressive is the 12th century Pazo de Rubianes in Vilagarcía de Arousa, which has the added benefit of a 21-hectare vineyard and a 40-hectare botanical garden.

Here you are free to walk among its mature evergreen magnolias and see the (alleged) oldest eucalyptus tree in Galicia, before heading to the tasting room for a few sips of the property’s snappy wines.

The palace itself is also open to the public – apparently the owner locks herself away in a wing of the property until everyone leaves. 

Pazo de Fefiñanes – Forgotten Forests and Galicia’s Oldest Winery

Situated in the historic coastal town of Cambados, the 16th century Pazo de Fefiñanes was built by King Felipe II’s advisor, Don Juan Sarmiento Valladares. It was eventually acquired by the Marquises of Figueroa, the descendants of whom still own and reside on the property – one of the noble family members even gave us a tour!

The property is packed with fascinating relics and much of it is open to the public. After touring the bedrooms, which looked as if they haven’t been touched for hundreds of years, we climbed up the fortress-like tower to enjoy the views across Cambados and down to the sea. The breeze was spiked with the scent of salt and wet sand and I felt like I was standing at the the very edge of the continent.

The breeze was spiked with the scent of salt and wet sand and I felt like I was standing at the the very edge of the continent.

Leading off the property via a huge wooden door, we entered the palace’s private gardens. We walked in the shadows of huge trees, fallen leaves rustling under our feet, and I considered that it felt more like a forest than a garden – nothing about it was manicured or landscaped – in a really beautiful way.

“It has always been here, always like this,” explained Maria. “We try to leave it natural. What is the word… wa… we… wild. Yes, we try to leave it wild.”

In a small clearing, sheltered by a leafy canopy, Maria’s mother poured us glasses of their famous Albariño wine. It was the first time I had been served wine by nobility and I found myself doing a silly sort of bowing/curtsy dance in my attempt to convey my gratitude. She smiled wryly and buried a laugh in her wine glass.

It was the first time I had been served wine by nobility and I found myself doing a silly sort of bowing/curtsy dance in my attempt to convey my gratitude.

Dating back to 1904, Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes is one of the oldest wineries in Galicia (and Spain) and has won a slew of prestigious awards. And having sipped my fair share of them on that balmy afternoon, I can attest that they deserve every one of them.

A Farewell Kiss Goodbye in Cambados

Slightly woozy from the midday sun and morning’s wine tasting efforts, we wandered through the sleepy seaside town of Cambados. Narrow streets untangled themselves before us, revealing scenes of vine-strangled houses and restaurants springing to life in time for lunch, the scent of the sea ever present.

It was all so idyllic, like another world and time entirely, and I found myself reflecting on my experiences in ‘Green Spain’. From the Basque Country and Cantabria to Asturias and now Galicia, everyone I’d met had been so proud, so passionate about sharing their heritage (and gastronomy!) and I felt honoured to have felt so welcome.

In a small but relatively modern restaurant called Pandemonium, we devoured creative dishes that drew on the region’s famous meat, fish and fresh produce. I topped up on Albariño and Mencia wine and felt a wave of panic wash over me as I pondered how I would go about putting the beauty and energy of this fantastical land into words.

I’ve done my best here but can’t help feeling I’ve only scratched the surface. I am desperate to return to Galicia and the rest of Green Spain and urge you to book your flight and see it all for yourself.

There’s simply nowhere else like it on earth.

Further Reading

For more on this corner of North Spain check out the Editor’s own travel adventures in Galicia, where he expounds on some more great places to visit and some of the idiosyncratic superstitions of the land.

Ben was invited to journey #InGreenSpain by Tourism Galicia, Spain Tourism and The Travel Mob. All opinions are his own.

About Ben Holbrook

Ben Holbrook is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in balmy Barcelona. Follow his vino-fuelled adventures across Spain and the rest of Europe on his blog DriftwoodJournals.com.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• Facebook
|
• More Posts(4)

The post A Tale of Pilgrims, Palaces & Wines in Galicia appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

“In Asturias we really know how to eat,” chuckled Ernesto as he poured me another glass of red wine. We’d only just met but he felt like an old friend. There’s something about the Asturianos, a warmth and familiarity that gives you the sense you’ve known each other for years.

We were huddled around a huge wooden table at a traditional cider house called Sidrería El Cabañón and the vibe was one of celebration, as it so often seems to be in these parts. Every square inch of our table was packed with beautiful tapas dishes: wafer-thin slices of crimson cecina (cured beef), colourful goat cheese salads and huge platters stacked with towers of the region’s famous cheese. It was a feast of biblical proportions.

“Here in Asturias we have the widest variety of cheeses in Europe,” boasted Ernesto. “Around 50 or 60 different types. Not the highest production in Europe, eh, but variety.”

Cider in Asturias is natural and poured from a height so that it ‘breaks’ upon colliding with the glass, giving it a zesty fizz that brings it to life.

We passed the heavy plates around the table, exploring the different flavours, and watched in awe as the skilled escanciadores (expert cider pourers filled up our cider glasses. Cider in Asturias is natural and poured from a height so that it ‘breaks’ upon colliding with the glass, giving it a zesty fizz that brings it to life.

Next to our table, two chefs busied away at an open fireplace, cooking Jurassic-sized t-bone steaks of ox, or ‘chuletons’ as they call them, over dancing flames and embers. We were all stuffed to the brim after the tapas but somehow managed to find space for our steaks, and many, many more ‘culíns’ of cider.

“You know what this means when we ask for un culín?” asked Ernesto. “It means ‘bottom’, or ‘little bottom’, because we just fill the bottom of the glass with cider.”

The idea is to drink your culín de sidra all in one go before it loses its zing. We’re talking alcohol percentages of around 6-8%, so things would get messy quite quickly if you were tipping back full glasses.

Seaside Living in Llanes

“Asturias was always very poor, so the people would paint their houses using the same paint that they used to paint the fishing boats,” Ernesto explained to me as we ambled leisurely through a technicolour street.

“Asturias was always very poor, so the people would paint their houses using the same paint that they used to paint the fishing boats…”

“You will see that many of the little villages and towns in Asturias, especially by the sea, are still very colourful. Even though we can now afford to buy paint, whatever paint we like, we still like to use many different colours.”

Llanes is your archetypal ‘quaint little fishing village’, a popular holiday destination among the Spanish. It’s all narrow streets that rumble with rowdy tapas bars and sidrerias (cider houses), and funky-smelling marinas jampacked with little fishing boats. The town’s coast stretches out for 45 glorious kilometres and harbours some 32 beaches, which are best viewed via a gentle stroll along the grassy Paseo de San Pedro, which offers views over the Cantabrian Sea and the terracotta skyline of the town.

Llanes is […] all narrow streets that rumble with rowdy tapas bars and sidrerias (cider houses), and funky-smelling marinas jampacked with little fishing boats.

I always remember Alejandro, my Asturian girlfriend’s father, explaining that Llanes is a particularly popular tourism destination for people from the neighbouring Basque Country.

“It’s beautiful here and the weather is better, we have the beaches and great food, but years ago it was also safer than staying in the Basque Country because they had problems with ETA, the Basque terrorist group. So a lot of them bought holiday homes here in Llanes,” Alejandro told me. Today there is still a sort of utopian air about it with its beautiful apartments, palm-filled gardens and relaxed pace.

The best way to see it? Just follow the locals’ lead and hop from bar to bar, sipping cider, nibbling tapas and diving into seafood banquets. You won’t have to go far to find a stretch of sand for a food-induced siesta!

Tales & Tribulations of Asturias’ Indianos

“In Asturias during the 19th century, like other areas in the north of Spain, there were not many opportunities to prosper,” Ernesto explained. “Thousands of Asturians emigrated to the ‘New World’, to Mexico, Argentina and Cuba, for example, to escape poverty and make a better life.”

“Thousands of Asturians emigrated to the ‘New World’, to Mexico, Argentina and Cuba, for example, to escape poverty and make a better life.”

Living conditions on the ships travelling from Spain to the Americas were horrific and many emigrants didn’t even survive the journey, which took around two months. Only a few who made it to the New World actually became wealthy, but the few who did strike it lucky became rich beyond their wildest dreams. These fortunate emigrants were known as Indianos and many of them returned to Spain to retire and revel in their wealth, often using their money to build new hospitals, schools and universities in their home towns.

Iñigo Noriega y Lasso was one of the lucky ones, an Asturian who emigrated to Mexico at the age of 14 and made vast amounts of dough with a slew of businesses involved in agriculture, textile production, mining, land development and railroad construction. At the height of his career he was the second largest landowner in Mexico and one of the richest men on the continent.

Only a few who made it to the New World actually became wealthy, but the few who did strike it lucky became rich beyond their wildest dreams. These fortunate emigrants were known as Indianos…

He never returned to Asturias permanently but did build a summer house in his hometown of Colombres to holiday at with his beloved wife Guadalupe Castro. The property was finished in 1906 and named Quinta Guadalupe. Sadly however Guadalupe died in 1904 and never saw it. Today, Quinta Guadalupe houses the Indianos Foundation-Museum of Emigration, sharing many stories like Iñigo Noriega’s with collections of handwritten letters, photographs, posters and more. The perfect place to unravel this fascinating history.

If you’re particularly taken, as I am, by the legacy of Asturias’ Indianos then you might enjoy the experience of staying at an authentic Indian Palace. Many of these colossal properties have been transformed into palatial hotels. I highly recommend Hotel Palacio de la Llorea, which boasts its own golf course and ultra-modern spa facilities.

Rambling Ribadesella, Where Mountains Kiss the Sea

The north of Spain has a reputation for being the wettest region of Spain and you’ll often hear the weather being compared to Britain’s. But let me assure you from personal experience that, though it’s nowhere near as sunny as, say, Barcelona or Valencia, it is far sunnier and drier than the UK. I considered this while surveying the outrageously beautiful beachfront town of Ribadesella. Little trawlers trundled out into an emerald green bay, the sun beaming down on the butterscotch sandbanks and bleaching the cloudless sky.

A range of Asturias’ ever-present, grass-clad mountains pierced the horizon and framed this sleepy little fishing town like a Rembrandt oil painting.

Serious Cider Tasting at Sidra Crespo

The whole of northern Spain is blanketed with apple trees but Asturias is responsible for around 80% of Spain’s cider production. Unlike wine, cider doesn’t necessarily get better with age so fresh cider is the best cider – and it doesn’t get any fresher than drinking it directly from the barrel it was made in.

…fresh cider is the best cider – and it doesn’t get any fresher than drinking it directly from the barrel it was made in.

There are countless sidrerias (cider houses) across Asturias but I highly recommend a paying a visit to Sidra Crespo, where you can learn about the entire production process from cleaning the apples in local spring water to pressing them under the weight of a giant stone. Everything here is done the old fashioned way, without chemicals, preservatives or anything else not deemed to be ‘natural’. More importantly though, you get to drink this cloudy nectar directly from the barrels (quite literally) in unlimited quantities. Like I say, it doesn’t matter what you do in Asturias, it always feels like a celebration.

A Saunter Through Surf City – Gijón

“There was a poll asking Spanish people about their favourite destinations to go for their holidays and Gijón was at the top of the list,” Ernesto explained casually.

“You get the feeling that the people here are very happy: enjoying the beautiful beach, stopping to take a coffee in the sun, meeting friends for tapas in the old town. When I used to lived here I would always walk to work along the seafront and I remember always feeling very happy by the time I arrived at my office.”

“There was a poll asking Spanish people about their favourite destinations to go for their holidays and Gijón was at the top of the list.”

With its vibrant streets and squares, which are all painted with hues of burnt orange, seafoam green and pastel pink, Gijón is undeniably handsome. It’s actually the largest city in Asturias, but it isn’t the capital (that would be Oviedo). The main beach, San Lorenzo, is the most popular beach in Asturias (though not necessarily the most beautiful) and is excellent for surfing.

Then there’s Cimavilla, Gijón’s old fishermen’s quarter. This cobblestoned warren of ancient cider bars and seafood restaurants bustles day and night with swarms of beautiful young things and old timers pouring cider and chomping the city’s famous sardines. Oh, and there are Roman ruins here, and parks galore, making this glorious ‘surf city’ the perfect base from which to explore all the best places in Asturias.

Going Slow in Oviedo

Oviedo is the capital city of Asturias and has a way of constantly reminding you of the fact. Its residents are a particularly well-heeled bunch and there’s a palpable sense that they have things to do and places to be. The buildings, too, are grand and imposing, contrasted with colourful little courtyards and street markets that make for A-grade people watching.

There’s also plenty of points of interest and cultural attractions to explore, most notably the divine San Salvador Cathedral. It was founded by King Fruela I of Asturias in 781 AD and among its many important vestiges is the Sudarium of Oviedo, a bloodstained piece of cloth which some say was wrapped around Jesus’ head after he died.

Naturally, as the capital of one of Spain’s greatest gastronomic regions, Oviedo is the place to eat.

Naturally, as the capital of one of Spain’s greatest gastronomic regions, Oviedo is the place to eat. For traditional Asturian dishes with a slight modern touch, local vibes and some of the friendliest cider pourers in the land, be sure to grab a table at La Finca Sidreria. Their fabada Asturiana – a hearty stew with fava beans, blood sausage, vegetables and hunks of pork seasoned with paprika, saffron and garlic – is one of the best I’ve had.

Cudillero: The Prettiest Town in the Land

It’s a bold thing to say, but I believe the little fishing village of Cudillero is one of the top three most beautiful fishing villages in Spain, if not Europe. Its buildings are stacked like dominoes on the near-vertical slopes and painted in a kaleidoscope of different colours, no doubt harking back to the days when the locals only had leftover paint from the fishing boats to paint their homes with.

Built in a small valley on the sea, the main part of the village is a mish-mash of little bars, tobacco shops, restaurants and gift stores selling little wooden fishing boats and colourful paintings by local artists. But take a few steps into the thick of the village and you’ll find scenes of local life untouched by the hands of time: salty old seadogs with cavernous crinkles in their faces and their trolley-wielding tidy wives, who leave strips of fish out on washing lines to dry in the sun. It really is like travelling back in time.

…you’ll find scenes of local life untouched by the hands of time: salty old seadogs with cavernous crinkles in their faces and their trolley-wielding tidy wives, who leave strips of fish out on washing lines to dry in the sun.

Hike up to the mirador (lookout point) to enjoy elevated views of this tiny tumbling town in all its glory.

Luarca and its Lighthouse

“Now that you know how to pour your own cider, you are half Asturiano, so it’s time to visit my town – Luarca. And I have a surprise!” Ernesto revealed.

Though not quite as fantastical as Cudillero, Luarca has more of an authentic feel, a sort of dishevelled desirability. Many of the old fishermen’s houses have been left to rack and ruin, their once ornate wooden windows now bruised and battered by the Atlantic breeze.

But the port is still very much alive with fishing boats, real fishing boats that take to the seas every day, captained by umpteenth generation seafarers. And high up on a neighbouring cliff is a beautiful lighthouse, a white chapel and eerily beautiful cemetery that overlooks the surrounding cliffs and the village below. Not a bad place to spend the rest of eternity, I thought to myself.

As for the surprise, Ernesto had saved the best ’til last…

The Cascading Cliffs of Cabo de Vidio

“This is one of my favourite places in Asturias. I used to come every morning to walk my dog, but I had to stop coming because she is a bit crazy and was chasing the goats down the side of the cliffs,” laughed Ernesto.

As well as the hearty gastronomy and dance-inducing cider, Asturias is renowned for its extraordinary natural beauty and often referred to as a “Paraiso Natural” (Natural Paradise). And this wild stretch of coastline is a prime example. Battered by the Atlantic Ocean, Cabo de Vidio (aka Cape Vidio) is a heart-joltingly beautiful seascape where cliffs cascade into the sea and crumbling rocks jut above the waves like the broken teeth of shipwrecked pirates.

Asturias really does have it all.

Further Reading

For further reading check out the Editor’s own highlights of Asturias here, or catch up with Ben’s other peregrinations in North Spain. He has already reported on the best places to visit in the Basque Country and popular points of interest in Cantabria… expect his report on the best destinations in Galicia next!

Ben was invited on the #InGreenSpain blogtrip by Tourism Asturias, Spain Tourism and The Travel Mob. All opinions are his own.

About Ben Holbrook

Ben Holbrook is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in balmy Barcelona. Follow his vino-fuelled adventures across Spain and the rest of Europe on his blog DriftwoodJournals.com.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• Facebook
|
• More Posts(4)

The post Asturias: Where Mountains Kiss the Sea appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Situated on the Bay of Biscay and nuzzled between the regions of Castile and León, Asturias, and the Basque Country, Cantabria is one of the most beautiful and interesting regions of Spain. It really does have it all: pristine beaches and sleepy little villages, dramatic mountainscapes and vineyards perched on hills that tumble into the cobalt-blue Cantabrian Sea.

It really does have it all: pristine beaches and sleepy little villages, dramatic mountainscapes and vineyards perched on hills that tumble into the cobalt-blue Cantabrian Sea.

Whether exploring its grand palaces, meeting the local characters or discovering the cuisine, you’re almost certain to fall for the charms of this unspoilt nook of Spain.

Among the Vines

Cantabria is a dream destination for travellers like me, for travellers who love to eat and drink, to literally ‘taste’ their way through new cultures. I kick-started my Cantabrian crusade at Bodegas Vidular, a boutique winery run by brothers Jon and Mikel Durán with the help of their white-whiskered father.

“I work in the office and Jon works in the vines,” Mikel joked as he introduced us. “His hands are softer than mine.”

It was still early morning, around 10.30am, but their enthusiasm and unbridled passion for their wine was infectious. With eyes ablaze and a devilish grin, Mikel guided us into a small industrial space filled with giant fermentation tanks. Jon opened a tap and flooded a terracotta jug to the brim with rough but pleasantly cloudy white wine and we toasted the morning with what tasted like sparkling grape juice, albeit with a slight kick to it. As we moved on to the next tanks, the wine became more, well, wine-like, and by the time we entered the tasting room we were all feeling pleasantly buzzed.

Jon opened a tap and flooded a terracotta jug to the brim with rough but pleasantly cloudy white wine and we toasted the morning…

‘Tasting room’ doesn’t really do the venue justice – it is in fact an 18th century farmhouse, a triumph of hand-cut stone and exposed wooden beams. The brothers spent years renovating the property, transforming it into a five-bedroomed mountain retreat where guests can cosy up by the fireplace before taking a stroll among the vines. I could quite happily spend a month or two here, sipping wine and devouring books in front of the fire.

Drawing on a blend of albariño, treixadura and chardonnay grapes, the wines are fresh and bright with subtle bursts of citrus and eucalyptus. Mikel prepared platters of local cheese and meats, and peeled open a few tins of Cantabria’s famous anchovies. It was an inspired combination – the saltiness of the firm little fish harmonising beautifully with the acidity of the wine. Naturally, we couldn’t leave without trying the brothers’ sparkling wine.

“We make it the same way as Cava in Catalonia, or Champagne in France. But we can’t call it Cava or Champagne, so we just call it sparkling wine,” explained Jon modestly.

“We make it the same way as Cava in Catalonia, or Champagne in France.”

It was as good as any Cava I’ve ever tasted and after a few sips the morning’s fiesta was in full swing. Sensing this, Mikel produced a selection of their orujos, a brandy-like spirit distilled from grapes – a Cantabrian classic. Sweet and smooth, it makes my heart race and belly burn. I left Bodegas Vidular feeling that I’d made two new friends, that I’d made a real connection with Cantabria and the proud people who make it such a special place.

Parables, Hangovers and Palaces

Like much of ‘Green Spain’, as the north is known, Cantabria is known for its palaces. Some were built for royalty, others as decadent declarations of wealth by rich ‘Indianos’ returning to Spain after making vast fortunes as tobacco growers, plantation owners and slave traders in the ‘New World’.

Palacio de la Peña is a 16th century palace that has been lovingly transformed into a five-star hotel. My fellow travellers and I had the pleasure of meeting owner Manuel, a talented architect and natural raconteur.

“How did you end up owning a palace?” we asked Manuel as we wandered through the hotel’s antique-resplendent lounge.

“One day, when I was very hungover, I went to the shop to buy some tobacco. I saw a property magazine that listed this place for sale. It was a ruin, nothing like it is now, but I bought it immediately…”

His answer was like something from a Two Ronnies comedy sketch: “One day, when I was very hungover, I went to the shop to buy some tobacco. I saw a property magazine that listed this place for sale. It was a ruin, nothing like it is now, but I bought it immediately. I didn’t tell anyone about it, not even my friends or family, for a whole year.”

As a trained architect, Manuel slowly started renovating the property and filling it with period furnishings, with old writing bureaus made of mahogany and decorated with ivory, gilt mirrors and lustrous vestiges from old churches.

“It’s difficult to decorate a place like this,” Manuel explained. “Not only because it’s very expensive, but also because it’s so difficult to find this amount of quality antiques.”

And how did Manuel source this priceless collection?

“I used to be an antique dealer,” he shrugged as if it were the most normal thing in the world.

The eight enormous rooms are more like independent apartments within the hotel, each offering spectacular views over the elegant gardens and/or Cantabrian Sea.

Sovereign Slumbers

During my time in Cantabria I was fortunate to stay in two palace hotels not too dissimilar to Manuel’s – Palacio de Soñanes in Villacarriedo, and Palacio de Guevara in Treceño. It really is such a unique experience staying in these ancient and romantic properties and they make for suitably charming basecamps from which to explore the many points of interest of this dramatic region of Spain.

If you’re not travelling on a princely budget but still want a taste of the royal treatment, I recommend booking a table for lunch at the gorgeous Palacio de Mijares. With its verdant gardens and sprawling dining rooms, it’s a popular venue for those who dream of a fairytale wedding. The restaurant is open to the public and offers hearty local dishes and boutique wines – a great place to go for lunch with a sense of occasion. Speaking of lunch…

Lunch Like the Locals

In Santander, the handsome capital of Cantabria, we indulged in what I can only describe as a royal banquet at Bodega El Riojano. The restaurant dates back to 1940 and is a seductively romantic space with moody lighting, hulking wooden beams and vibrantly decorated wine barrels.

Blessed with rugged mountains, fertile pasturelands, rivers and the Cantabrian Sea, Cantabria has both variety and abundance when it comes to gastronomy. Meat, fish, shellfish, cheese – you name it, you’ll find the best of it here.

La Magdalena Palace: A Regal Retreat

Perched on a peninsula overlooking the Bay of Santander, the colossal Magdalena Palace was built for King Alfonso XIII and his English wife Queen Victoria Eugenia. The construction of the palace took just four years (1908 – 1912) and was paid for by the Santander City Council. It’s thought that the city gifted the palace to the king and queen in the hope that their presence in Santander would attract other prestigious families and businesses – it worked.

The royals spent all of their summers at the palace up until 1930, when they were exiled as a result of the Second Spanish Republic. After the king’s death the palace was inherited by his son Don Juan de Borbón who rather cheekily sold it back to the city of Santander for 150 million pesetas, even though they had given it to his parents for free.

Today Magdalena Palace is the most visited landmark in Santander and used to host important government events and conferences. The Menéndez Pelayo International University also hold their prestigious summer courses here and the lucky students get to call the palace home.

Discovering Wines of the Future

I liked Antonia and  Curai as soon as I met them. The couple met at university, studying archeology and biology respectively before starting their own organic winery, Bodega Señorío del Pas.

“We love wine but we hate hangovers, so we decided to start our own vineyard and produce natural wines. You can drink as much of our wine as you like and you won’t get a hangover,” Antonia enthused.

I can’t honestly imagine ever being unleashed on as much wine as I could drink and not waking up without a herd of rhinos stampeding through my head, but theirs is a worthy endeavour and I support them fully.

As well as their “hangover-free” stamp, these organic wines taste seriously good. If you’ve tried organic/biodynamic/natural wines before then you’ll know roughly what to expect. At first, having had so much “normal” wine by this point in my travels, it tasted and felt (texturally) a little different on my tongue. But the more I drank, the better it tasted – fruity but earthy, dry but balanced. From what I can tell from my vino-fuelled adventures across Spain, organic wines are now a huge trend within the market, so I highly recommend paying Antonia and Curai a visit to learn a bit more about it all.

Rise and Wine

Another beautiful day in Cantabria and another early morning wine tasting saw us exploring the hillside vines of the Bodega Miradorio de Ruiloba winery. I’ve had the good fortune of visiting many vineyards in my time but have never visited during the harvest season, until now.

I’ve had the good fortune of visiting many vineyards in my time but have never visited during the harvest season, until now.

In a muddy four-wheel-drive truck we bumped and bounced our way up narrow dirt tracks to a series of rolling vineyards that hung heavy with ripe bunches of grapes. Terracotta rooftops and the glowing Cantabrian sea provided a dramatic backdrop as rosy-cheeked men hurled crates of grapes into the back of a tractor trailer. This really was the most beautiful vineyard I’ve ever seen.

Back in the tasting room, we met the owners and heard how it had all come to be. The five owners are old friends and all have full-time jobs. The bodega is their passion project.

“I’m a lawyer, it’s very stressful. My office is in San Sebastian, but I try to come here for the weekends.”

There aren’t many people producing wines like this and the friends seem to be surprised by their sudden success.

“We’ve had amazing feedback already. Restaurants across Spain, in Madrid and Barcelona, are asking us for thousands and thousands of bottles, but we only produce a very small amount so for now we have to tell them no. But we’re growing every year.”

The wine was beautifully light to the eye and had that snappy apple bite that I love so much about wines from northern Spain.

“Can you taste the subtle saltiness at the end? It’s because our vines are so close to the sea.”

It was probably my favourite wine from my time in ‘Green Spain’, and god knows I sampled enough of it.

Sunflowers & Symphonies at El Capricho de Gaudí

Antoni Gaudí may be famous for filling Barcelona with his Modernista masterpieces, including La Sagrada Familia, Casa Milà and Park Güell, but only a few of his designs were constructed outside of his home town.

The small Cantabrian town of Comillas is one of the few non-Catalan destinations to boast one of the architect’s greatest works. El Capricho was built between 1883 and 1885 for a rich lawyer called Máximo Díaz de Quijano, who made his fortune in Cuba. The idea was for the layout of the house to encourage its inhabitants to move from room to room as the sun passes from one side of the building to the other, the way a sunflower turns to follow the sun throughout the day.

Bright yellow sunflowers adorn the many ceramic tiles that cover the building, which also features a mish-mash of neo-Mudejar, neo-Gothic, Persian and Japanese Oriental design touches – whatever the whimsical Gaudí desired, hence the name ‘The Caprice”.

The idea was for the layout of the house to encourage its inhabitants to move from room to room as the sun passes from one side of the building to the other, the way a sunflower turns to follow the sun…

Importantly, as with almost all of Gaudí’s houses, elements of the design are personalised to celebrate the owner’s personal interests. In this case, El Capricho hints at Máximo Díaz de Quijano’s love of music, with wrought iron balconies that resemble musical staves and notes, a number of music rooms and windows fitted with bells that “sing” when they are opened or closed. Don’t miss the little rooftop terrace, which is accessible via a claustrophobia-inducing spiralling staircase.

A Visit to Palacio de Sobrellano

Just next door to El Capricho is the altogether more sobre and somewhat eery Palacio de Sobrellano. Colossal in scale and lavished with imposing banquet rooms and cavernous hallways, it was built for Antonio López López, the noble Marquis of Comillas who enriched himself and many others by establishing the Compañía Transatlántica Española (transatlantic transport company). Less gloriously, he was also a slave trader.

You may notice that instead of facing the nearby Comillas beach, as one might expect it to, the palace overlooks the Pontificia Comillas University. This is because Antonio López López supplied the funds to build the university, and many other establishments in Comillas, and wanted to be able to watch over it from his home.

36,000-Year-Old Cave Drawings

As if the gorgeous palaces and world-class wineries weren’t already enough to inspire you to book your flights, Cantabria is also famous for its unfathomably ancient caves. The most famous is the cave of Altamira in Santillana del Mar.

Covering the cave’s undulating ceiling are countless pieces of art created by our ancestors over many thousands of years. These ancient masterpieces were made using charcoal, ochre and fragments of haematite and depict horses, goats, wild boar, deer and the now extinct steppe bison.

The artists even used the natural contours of the stone to give their subjects a more lifelike, three-dimensional form. It really puts everything into perspective, the fact that our relatively short period of time here on earth is so fleeting.

Altamira cave is celebrated as the “Sistine Chapel of Paleolithic Art”, but what I should also mention is that the cave open to the public is actually a replica of the actual cave, which is located just a few hundred metres away. Scientists obviously want to preserve the original drawings, which is difficult with a bazillion flashing camera lights going off all day every day.

But don’t let that put you off. In fact, having arrived at the replicated cave after a particularly rather enjoyable wine tasting session, I was oblivious to the fact that I wasn’t actually in the real cave until leaving the site and finding myself enveloped in a conversation about how realistic it all was. “But, wasn’t that the actual cave?” I muttered sheepishly.

Like I say, you really wouldn’t know it’s not the actual cave.

Sleepy Village Vibes in Santillana del Mar

Cantabria is known for its colourful villages and Santillana del Mar is one of the must-sees. Its somewhat misleading name has spurred the nickname “Town of Three Lies” – Santi (holy), flat (llana), del mar (of the sea). It is not a holy town, nor is it flat or anywhere near the sea. But what it is is a perfectly preserved medieval marvel, a warren of cobbled streets lined with butterscotch stone buildings and flower-filled balconies.

A wealth of bars, restaurants and little shops hawking all sorts of bric-à-brac make for a thoroughly pleasurable day of wandering and perusing, but what I really enjoyed was simply parking myself on a bench and indulging in a spot of world-class people watching. On my particular visit to the town a magic show had taken over, which meant the streets had been commandeered by swarms of local children.

It was an insight into a different way of life and reminded me of my own youth, of simpler days before the Internet, without the burden of being connected to everyone and everything at the swipe of a screen.

Loved this post? We have covered even more of Cantabria’s best things to do and places to visit right here.

Ben was invited to travel to Cantabria as part of the #InGreenSpain blogtrip organised by Tourism Cantabria, the Spanish Tourism Office and The Travel Mob bloggers collective. Subscribe to Urban Travel Blog and you can keep up with the rest of his journey across Northern Spain, as he continues to cider-loving Asturias and epic superstitious Galicia.

About Ben Holbrook

Ben Holbrook is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in balmy Barcelona. Follow his vino-fuelled adventures across Spain and the rest of Europe on his blog DriftwoodJournals.com.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• Facebook
|
• More Posts(4)

The post Cantabria: A Land of Wineries and Palaces appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

The sun was setting fast, splashing orange and red all over the sky as it hurtled towards the horizon. As our 4×4 bounced along the rocky path, spraying dust in all directions, the sun dipped behind a mountain, disappearing from our view. It was a race against time to find a viewing spot before sunset. We reached the end of the path, jumped out of the car and ran to the top of a small hill, certain we’d have a good view from there. To our dismay, the whole view to the west was blocked by craggy mountains. Trust us to the miss the “not to be missed” sunset experience!

Returning to our hotel in the semi-darkness, feeling rather dejected, we spotted a small group of people gathered at the back of the hotel. Approaching them, we realised that they were enjoying the after-glow of a beautiful sunset, from a perfect viewpoint…. It seems our jaunt around the mountains had been in vain and the best spot had been right in front of our noses. At least we knew where to go the next night.

We were staying at the Jebel Shams Resort, at the top of Jebel Shams (the “Sun Mountain”) in Oman. We’d taken a break from our busy lives in Dubai to enjoy the peace and tranquility of the Hajar mountain range, which runs along north eastern Oman and into the United Arab Emirates. The mountains are the perfect place for people interested in hiking, mountain biking, camping and climbing.

The Balcony Walk

The main attraction of the mountain range is Wadi Nakhar, otherwise known as the “Omani Grand Canyon” or the Wadi Ghul Canyon. The gorge is 200 metres deeper than the Arizona Grand Canyon (but with a lot fewer tourists!) and is most famous for its spectacular “Balcony Walk” – a path along the rocky rim which leads to the abandoned village of Al Sab. This walk was the reason we’d driven six hours from Dubai.

The path starts in the hamlet of Khitaym, which is a couple of kilometres past the Jebel Shams Resort. Arriving at the start point, we were bemused to see that the enterprising villagers have taken advantage of the increase in visitors by setting up stalls selling beads and trinkets. (Let’s hope we don’t go back in 10 years to find a McDonalds has sprung up!)

Facing the canyon, we took the W6 path to the left (the W6A path to the right leads you on a descent down to the village of Wadi Ghul). The path winds around the cliffs, with stunning views into the canyon and the little villages at the bottom. This is the sort of landscape which makes you feel small – in a good way. The cliff walls are over a kilometre high and drop down into the canyon in zig-zag steps, forming a kind of natural amphitheatre. Unlike other famous mountain ranges, which are covered with forests or jungles or snow, the Hajar mountains are bare of all vegetation, other than a few shrubs. This makes the scenery all the more dramatic, as every jagged rock and sharp drop off is exposed.

At the end of the path is the village, where a row of stone houses shelter under a sloping cliff wall. You can wander through the dilapidated houses, which look a bit like rocky igloos. Round the corner, the cliff has been sculpted into terraces where the villagers would have grown their crops. We were told that the village used to be home to around 15 families. Its remote location meant that it was well–protected from enemies (who clearly couldn’t be bothered to make the 1.5 hour hike to get there) and had a good source of water.

The round trip took us about 3 hours. The route is clearly marked with red, white and yellow painted flags so it’s very difficult to get lost. The path is rough, but not dangerous or difficult. That means that walking boots aren’t necessary but flip flops would be foolish

For the more adventurous

The other famous hike in the area is the W4 hike, which goes all the way from the bottom of the Jebel Shams mountain to the summit and back again. The hike takes 10-12 hours, so it’s definitely one for the fit, healthy and super keen! Sunset in Oman is at 6-7pm all year round, so you need to set off early to avoid being caught in the dark. We certainly weren’t up early enough to attempt it!

Where to sleep

Being the softies we are, we opted to stay in a hotel, but lots of people choose to camp. Wild camping is permitted in Oman so you can pretty much choose your perfect spot and pitch your tent.

The Jebel Shams Resort is simple and clean, but not luxurious (don’t expect 5* Dubai opulence!) You can choose between staying in a chalet for 70 OMR (around US$180) or an Arabic tent for 50 OMR (around US$130). The tents are what we would call “glamping” – all the fun of camping but with electricity and a comfortable bed. There are fire pits outside each room, which is a great way to warm up as the evenings can get a bit chilly that high up. The hotel website also advertises a swimming pool, but don’t get excited – it’s a funny shade of green and I couldn’t go in after my husband said the words “legionnaire’s disease”.

All rooms are sold on a half board basis, which means a buffet breakfast and dinner. My advice is to get there early! We arrived late on the first night and there were only a few sad bits of salad left. For other meals we were first in line and the food was pretty decent.

What the hotel lacks in luxury, it certainly makes up for in location. Perched at the top of the Jebel Shams mountain, there are 360 degree views of rugged peaks and sweeping valleys. As we eventually found out, the hotel is also the perfect spot to watch the sunset. On the second night, we were rewarded with the most serene view as the sun slipped through wispy clouds and left the whole sky streaked with colour.

Once the sun had gone, we realised that “dark” in the mountains is really dark! This meant one thing: star gazing. We drove a short distance from the hotel, turned off the car lights and sat on the bonnet looking up at the stars.  There’s no better way to make “real life” disappear…

A few helpful tips on getting there:

Jebel Shams is about 240 km from Muscat and 500 km from Dubai. Coming from Dubai, you need to endure the rather tedious border crossing, which can add quite a bit of time to your journey, depending on the day and time. I don’t recommend trying to cross the border on a public holiday – we once had to turn back when faced with a 5 hour border queue…

After the border, you follow the main highway (route no. 21) for a couple of hours and then turn off into the mountains. The road winds through small villages as it climbs up Jebel Shams. Signposts are few and far between, so you’re best off relying on google maps. The last part of the road is not paved, so a 4×4 is preferable.

About Emma Mehrabanpour

Emma worked as a lawyer in London and Dubai before abandoning the corporate life to travel the world with her husband. You can follow their adventures at ontheroadtohappiness.org. More on Emma here.

• Mail
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(1)

The post Oman’s Answer to the Grand Canyon appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Straddling the border between Spain and France, northern Spain’s Basque Country boasts rugged good looks, world-famous gastronomy and century-upon-century of culture, myths and legends. It’s a land of rolling countryside and virile vineyards, of tree-clad cliffs that tumble into the Atlantic Ocean. The cities are packed with tapas bars, where locals speak Euskera, a language unlike any you’ve heard before.

It’s a land of rolling countryside and virile vineyards, of tree-clad cliffs that tumble into the Atlantic Ocean.

So leave your preconceptions of Spain back home and let this ancient corner of the globe sweep you off your feet.

To Begin at the Beginning – Bilbao

Despite being the largest city in the Basque Country, and one of the most famous cities in Spain, Bilbao isn’t actually the the region’s capital. It is however one of the most important hubs of culture and commerce. It’s a pretty city that’s built along a river, where locals prowl the colourful streets, stopping at little bakeries, butchers and markets to pick up supplies. People here still have time for each other, to perch at a bar and chew the fat with their friends and neighbours over a glass of wine and some tapas.

A City of Art

Bilbao’s protagonist is the otherworldly Guggenheim Museum. Designed by Canadian-American star-chitect Frank Gehry, this shimmering, titanium-clad art museum glistens like a spaceship that has crash-landed on earth after blazing through the atmosphere. Harboured inside its cavernous belly you’ll find a seemingly endless array of contemporary, and somewhat cryptic, modern art exhibitions.

For many visitors, though, its main draw is the design of the building itself, as well as the spindly spider sculpture outside, called ‘Maman’. It was designed by Louise Bourgeois as a tribute to her mother – the frightfully huge scale and cage-like form of its splintery legs portraying a mother’s role as both predator and protector.

It was designed by Louise Bourgeois as a tribute to her mother – the frightfully huge scale and cage-like form of its splintery legs portraying a mother’s role as both predator and protector.

From the Guggenheim, my friends and I took a scenic stroll along the river Nervión into the city centre, weaving our way to the square of Plaza Nueva. Nestled in the colourful warren of the Casco Viejo (Old Town) and lined by a host of traditional tapas bars and sunny terraces, it’s the perfect place for a pitstop and a bit of people watching.

Riverside Dining

At lunchtime we waltzed our way around the bustling Mercado de la Ribera, which sits right on the river like a permanently harboured ship. We squeezed around a table at the funky La Ribera Restaurant on the ground floor and threw ourselves mouths first into the Basque Country’s fabled cuisine: lightly fried squid and octopus with garlic, fresh salads and chunky steaks of cod drizzled in lemon. We washed it all down with a few bottles of red wine from the nearby Rioja region – this is what Bilbao is all about.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

Not far from Bilbao is one of the Basque Country’s most dramatic natural beauty spots, a craggy islet called Gaztelugatxe (“Castle Rock”) and easily one of the most unique destinations in the region. If you’re a Game of Thrones fan then you may recognise it as Dragonstone from season 7. Situated in the Bay of Biscay, battered by the Atlantic waves, it’s connected to the mainland by a zig-zagging stone bridge and looks like something straight out of a fairytale.

Adding further mystique is the crowning church of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, which dates back to the 10th century. I didn’t have time climb the stairs up to the church, but hiking down the verdant cliffside, which smelled like damp wood and summer rain, to get to the foot of bridge was a heart-pounding adventure in its own right.

Txakoli Wine Tasting

If there’s one drink you absolutely must try when in the Basque Country it’s txakoli (pronounced ‘cha-ko-lee’). Made with the relatively unknown Hondarrabi Zuri grape variety, this dry white wine has a slight natural sparkle to it and a refreshing acidic bite. The Basques drink it day and night, though typically it’s enjoyed as an aperitivo with a few tapas before lunch or dinner.

The txakoli wine region, known as Getariako Txakolina, is made up of the rolling vineyard terraces that blanket the hills surrounding Getaria and Zarautz. It was here, at Bodega de Txakoli Talai Berri, that I got to taste a few glasses straight from source. The bodega’s vines cover 12 hectares of the “sunniest slopes of Mount Talai Mendi” as Itziar, one of the owners, explained before topping up our glasses. I sipped gently from my glass and watched the moon cast shifts of silver over the tumbling vines, the bubbles of the wine dancing gently on my tongue.

San Sebastian

There’s something special about San Sebastian. It’s superior to any other seaside city you’ve ever visited. The beach is pristine and lapped by crystalline waters. The streets are clean, broad and handsome, packed with the city’s renowned pintxo (tapas) bars and Michelin-starred restaurants. And then there’s the manicured gardens and surrounding green-peaked mountains to provide a sense of serenity. The people, too, are beautiful and seem to dress elegantly even if they’re just popping to the shop to pick up some milk. It’s a real-life utopia.

I’ve visited twice to date and the weather was bad on both occasions, yet I am still left with this faultless impression. From beneath my umbrella I strolled La Concha beach and explored the gardens of Miramar Palace, which was once the summer residence of Queen Isabella II. Even in the drizzle, it was impossible not to fall in love with the place.

San Sebastian's vibrant Mercado La Bretxa is the perfect place to connect with locals and see where the city's chefs find their inspiration. . ‪#InGreenSpain #visitspain @Spain @VisitEuskadi @sansebastiantourism

A post shared by Urban Travel Blog (@urbantravelblog) on Oct 5, 2017 at 3:09am PDT

On the Pintxo Trail

After checking in at the suitably stylish Hotel Barceló Costa Vasca and a quick freshen up, we head out in search of San Sebastian’s famous pintxos.

“A lot of Basque chefs were influenced by French Nouvelle cuisine,” explains our guide Ana. “Many of us who live in San Sebastian go to France a couple of times of month. It sounds very extravagant, but it’s only an hour way!”

It is only a Wednesday night, but the streets and bars of San Sebastian are packed out.

“This is something we do almost every day – we go out and meet our friends and family for a few pintxos and some txakoli, and then we go home to eat our main meal,” Ana explains as we elbow our way into a tiny bar.

“This is something we do almost every day – we go out and meet our friends and family for a few pintxos and some txakoli, and then we go home to eat our main meal,” Ana explains…

There are countless great pintxo bars in the Old Town, or “Parte Vieja” as it’s known locally, especially along the streets of Calle 31 de Agosto, Calle Fermín Calbetón, and Calle Mayor. But my personal favourite is the more relaxed Ganbara Restaurante. Don’t miss their rendition of the region’s famous “Gildas”, which are made by spiking pickled chilli peppers, anchovies and olives onto a toothpick – you wedge the whole thing between your teeth and eat it in one.

This tasty little bite is relatively spicy by Spanish standards. It was named after Rita Hayworth’s raunchy portrayal of Gilda in the 1946 thriller, a film which, evidently, roused a few local chefs into creative culinary action. Pair with a bottle of txacoli or Rioja and you’ve got the makings of a memorable night.

And while we’re on the subject of wine…

Sideways in Rioja Alavesa Wine Country

Ask anyone to name a Spanish wine it’s highly likely they’ll say Rioja, but very few people realise that part of this world-renowned terroir is located in the Basque Country. It’s referred to as Rioja Alavesa and is the smallest of the La Rioja sub-regions. But despite its diminutive scale, it’s actually home to some of the most spectacular wineries in Spain, including the mind-bendingly beautiful Marqués de Riscal winery and hotel, which is anything but what you’d expect to find on a 150 year old vineyard.

Designed by Frank Gehry – yup, the same Frank Gehry who designed the Guggenheim – it’s a bizarre and organic looking structure. Undulating ribbons of titanium form the roof, glowing with a soft violet hue that evokes images of the region’s famous red wine cascading into a glass.

Although I’m not entirely sure he succeeded, Gehry wanted the building to blend in with its surroundings.

Although I’m not entirely sure he succeeded, Gehry wanted the building to blend in with its surroundings. The stone used for the main walls is the same stone that was used to build the nearby church, majestic views of which can be enjoyed from the rooftop terrace bar, along with the awe-inspiring backdrop of the Sierra de Cantabria mountain range.

I can imagine some architecture snobs might find it all a bit too much, but in my humble opinion this is one of the most spectacular buildings on the planet. I particularly enjoyed the wine tour and tasting session, exploring the dusty old cellars and tipping back a few glasses/bottles of the company’s excellent whites and reds with our lively guide Francesca.

If all of this sounds like your kind of thing then you might like to check yourself in to one of the property’s 43 luxury rooms and suites for a few vino-fuelled nights. The five-star facilities include a gorgeous pool and spa, and an extended stay here would be high up on my list of places to visit when returning to the Basque Country.

Lunch in Laguardia

Rioja Alavesa is full of fairytale villages, but if you’re short on time you simply can’t miss Laguardia. Perched on a hill with commanding views over the rolling vineyards and surrounding mountains, it was once a fully-walled fortress. The ramparts still stand and to navigate the narrow little alleys and cobblestoned streets of this charming medieval town is nothing short of time travel.

Here, at the historic Hospedería Los Parajes, I enjoyed a feast of foie gras with cream cheese and apple sauce, crispy artichokes with prawns and cured ham, and chuletillas (lamb chops) with french fries and red peppers. And, but of course, a ridiculous amount of red, red wine…

To the Capital – Vitoria-Gasteiz

As I mentioned earlier, Vitoria-Gasteiz is actually the capital of the region, not Bilbao, and not to be left off any serious Basque Country itinerary. It’s a seriously vibrant and charming city, with a colourful Old Town (known as “The Almond” due to its shape) packed with bustling pintxo bars and restaurants.

Don’t miss the perpetually rumbling Calle Cuchillería, where you could literally spend an entire day eating your way through the lively little bars. Vitoria-Gasteiz is also one of the greenest cities in Spain and even held the title of 2012’s European Green Capital. If you’re looking for a place to stay in Vitoria then I highly recommend the Silken Ciudad de Vitoria Hotel, which is located mere stumbling distance from the action.

Much More To Discover…

That’s not all the Basque Country has to offer. To read up on Guernica, the town whose fate inspired Picasso, txokos (private dining clubs), the Urdaibai Bird Centre with its Scottish Ospreys, the Albaola Sea Factory museum (for a fascinating insight into whaling), the UNESCO-listed Bizkaia Bridge, the beautiful town of Hondarribia, the Flysch Geopark and see some sunny photos of San Sebastian check out the Editor’s own list of things to do and places to go in the Basque Country.

Ben was invited to the Basque Country as part of the #InGreenSpain blogtrip organised by Tourism Euskadi, the Spanish Tourist Office and The Travel Mob bloggers collective. Subscribe to Urban Travel Blog and keep up with his adventures through the rest of North Spain, as he continues to lush Cantabria, breathtaking Asturias and epic Galicia.

About Ben Holbrook

Ben Holbrook is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in balmy Barcelona. Follow his vino-fuelled adventures across Spain and the rest of Europe on his blog DriftwoodJournals.com.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• Facebook
|
• More Posts(4)

The post A Bimble Through The Basque Country appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

‘Everyone back to ours’ is the fitting slogan for Hull’s 2017 City of Culture campaign.

Thousands of local Hullensians have volunteered to help with an ambitious programme involving a different cultural event every day of the year throughout 2017. Some residents have even signed up to a homestay initiative, offering visitors a place to stay in the city. Everyone back to ours indeed.

The sense of pride on the streets of Hull is palpable. Stepping off the train I was greeted by a wave of grinning volunteers in pale blue jackets. Every shopkeeper, barman or waitress I encountered was keen to impress how important the City of Culture badge was to the city.

Even the Lord Mayor, draped in gold chains and medallions, managed to flout the pomp associated with his outfit to regale me with tales of boozy rock concerts from his youth, before listing some of the events that have got him excited about 2017.

Music Events

For many, the Lord Mayor included, the standout act of the year is set to be the return of The Spiders From Mars – yes that’s the backing band to David Bowie’s legendary Ziggy Stardust album.

The remaining Spider, Woody Woodmansey, will be joined by long time Bowie collaborator Tony Visconti and Heaven 17’s Glenn Gregory to perform the first ever live rendition of The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars in its entirety.

Also on the agenda is an intoxicating show from the London Sinfonietta, who will be recreating the hypnotic sounds of the eerie 2013 sci-fi film Under the Skin. Watch Scarlett Johansson, as an alien impersonating a human female, driving around Scotland enticing unsuspecting men into her van, while Nica Levi conducts a live multi-textured orchestral score.

Mind on the Run is a three-day festival (17th to 19th February) dedicated to the life and works of experimental musical genius Basil Kirchin, whose career evolved from Big Band drummer to rock’n’roll collaborator, before drifting towards dreamy film scores and daring sonic soundscapes. Events as diverse as Kirchin’s discography, featuring a host of his dedicated fans from bands such as The Specials, Sonic Youth and Goldfrapp, will take place throughout the weekend.

Street Installations

In addition to getting local artists and residents involved in the City of Culture programme, there is a strong drive to fill the streets of Hull with creativity. This vision is to be realised through a number of on-site installations, art projects and theatrical performances all over the city.

REDboard will turn 13 Hull billboards into canvasses for local and international artists, the Thornton Estate housing project will be transformed into a sea of colour by Italian artist Silvio Palladino, the iconic 2.2km Humber Bridge will enjoy an otherworldly operatic soundscape composed by Jez Riley French and various locations around the city will play stage to James Phillip’s ambitious and explosive year-long narrative Flood, which looks at what could happen to the city after a deluge.

Art & Theatre

Hull is a city enshrined in traditions, from its unique white phone boxes to the hustle and bustle of Trinity Indoor Market, and as such there is also a full roster of more traditional, less avant-garde, art forms.

Hull Truck Theatre will host Shakespeare’s deformed and jealous villain Richard III, as well as The Hypocrite, a riotous comedy based on one of Hull’s proudest historical moments: the day in 1642 when King Charles I was not admitted entry into the town!

Jimmy Carr’s razor-sharp wit (and disturbing barn owl laugh) will grace the stage at Hull City Hall for a night of comedy gold, while the Ferens Gallery will host five of Francis Bacon’s notorious and chilling Screaming Popes.

Permanent Attractions

With 365 different cultural events taking place in 2017, there is plenty to keep you occupied… but that’s not all. The City of Culture celebrations may be temporary, but Hull is no pop-up exhibition. The down-to-earth city is filled with fun activities, historical landmarks and local food and drink options – making Hull a great destination for a short break.

Harbourside Humber Street, a regenerated fruit market, is the place for homemade jewelry, craft beer, the Museum of Club Culture, live music and, quite-possibly, the tastiest artisan treats in the UK. Humble chocolatier Jon Collins creates delectable flavour combinations such as cherry and sage, strawberry and black pepper and basil chocolate. To preserve the quality, and the prestige, Cocoa chocolates are only available in-store. This makes them an ideal gift for loved ones, who will mostly likely appreciate them substantially more than a destination branded tea towel, a tacky fridge magnet or a small bottle of a paint-strippingly strong local spirit.

Among other attractions, the Museums Quarter features Wilberforce House, the birthplace of Hull MP William Wilberforce who led the movement to abolish slavery, and the Streetlife Museum, a journey through 200 years of Hull’s streets embellished by model trams, buses and walk-in Victorian shops.

Don’t be fooled by The Deep (pictured in feature photo), it may have over 3,000 water creatures, ranging from penguins, sharks, and sawfish to sting rays and that one out of Finding Nemo, but it’s ‘not a zoo for fish’: it tells the story of the Blue Planet from start to finish future.

Fish can also be found on the streets of Hull, in the form of 41 life-size bronze sculptures dotted around the city centre. The Fish Trail is an interesting way to explore the town, as it takes in most of the landmarks, as well as a good number of pubs stocked to the cellar with local beer and ale.

Josh was invited to the official Hull City of Culture 2017 press launch by Visit England in association with partners Visit Hull and East Yorkshire, Marina Hotel and Furleys.

About Josh Ferry Woodard

Josh Ferry Woodard is a freelance travel writer based in London. You can find his work on sites such as Reader's Digest, Huffington Post, Roads & Kingdoms, Slate, Paste, Spotted By Locals & many more.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(10)

The post UK City of Culture 2017: See You in Hull! appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

A bit like the Basque Country, Galicia is one of those Spanish regions that feels distinctly different to the rest of this Iberian nation. The Galician people have their own language, their own cuisine, and their own distinctive culture and traditions that are very different to those in the south. Forget bullfighting and flamenco, this is the land of bagpipes and flaming brews.

Forget bullfighting and flamenco, this is the land of bagpipes and flaming brews.

The latter of these are officially known as queimadas, a fiery punch made with Galician brandy, fruits, coffee beans, lemon peel and spices. After the concoction is mixed, traditionally in a clay pot or even hollow pumpkin, it is set on fire and a master of ceremonies recants a centuries-old spell over the brew, invoking “the Forces of air, earth, sea and fire” to protect the community from evil. This druidic practice is believed to have been passed down from the Galicians’ Celtic ancestors in the 11th century, and has endured through the ages – initially from superstition, but perhaps now more by tradition – and people today will still drink the queimada so that “witches will flee, straddling their brooms”.

The ritual of the queimada is far from the only superstition alive and well in Galicia. Everywhere you turn in Santiago de Compostela you’ll see souvenir shops selling grotesque dolls of meigas and bruxas… that is to say white and black witches, who cast their spells for light and dark purposes respectively; whilst every farmhouse you’ll pass walking in the green Galician countryside has triangular stones placed on their slate roofs to ward off evil.

The supernatural and the divine are often interlinked, and so it is in Galicia. The holy pilgrimage of El Camino de Santiago was actually appropriated by the Catholic church from a pagan pilgrimage to (what they believed was) the end of the world. Long before King Alfonso II took a hike from Asturias to pay homage to the relics of the Apostle St. James, pagan pilgrims would journey across northern Spain to complete a born-again ritual. They would finish at Finisterre (which literally means “the end of the world”), burn their dirty clothes, and witness the sun sink into the infinite sea off La Costa de Morta (the Coast of Death). This journey symbolised the pilgrim’s death and rebirth.

The holy pilgrimage of El Camino de Santiago was actually appropriated by the Catholic church from a pagan pilgrimage to (what they believed was) the end of the world.

Indeed whilst today’s Catholic pilgrimage officially finishes at the splendid Galician capital of Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St. James are entombed in the cathedral, many Christians past and present still carry on to Finisterre to see the ocean that marks, if not the end of the world, the end of Europe at least.

Whether it is the mysteries of nature and the elements, or the mysticism of a Christian God, many travellers have sought and found meaning in Galicia. And for those that haven’t, there’s always the pulpo de Gallego…

Highlights of Galicia

A run down of some of the most interesting things to see and do that I discovered on my travels in this part of North Spain, including a look at the aforementioned Galician-style fried octopus and other gastronomical treats…

Hiking The Camino

There are many routes of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, but one thing they all have in common is that they all end here in Galicia, in the regional capital of Santiago de Compostela, Christiandom’s third most sacred city. I myself hiked select parts of the Northern Way on a trip across all four regions of North Spain, including a section in Galicia that took me from the small town of Lourenza, with its Monastery of San Salvador, to Mondoñedo (more on that town in a bit). The walk took me through forest, farmland and towns and along the way I saw grazing cows, the sacred white Galician horse, the classic regional granaries (thin rectangular constructions on 3m high stone stilts), chicken coups, barking dogs and kittens slinking for cover at the sight of humans. The air was ripe with the smells of hay, peppermint and manure and thick with birdsong whilst butterflies flitted in hedgerows. At one point a group of serious young pilgrims passed us, and I asked one, Milda from Lithuania, why she wanted to do the Camino. “Why not? I finished my studies and I wanted to find the answer to life. But now after 600km I don’t know the answer… but I’m good. [Hiking the Camino] is not the answer, but it’s just a good feeling. It’s good to walk here, it’s beautiful.” And then she was gone in a blur of Nordic walking sticks.

Playa de las Catedrales

Even the landscapes are holy in Galicia, and “Cathedrals Beach” is an unmissable stop off for beach-loving travellers, even if these days you need a permit to visit during the summer months (hint: you can apply for one here. It’s free). This 1.4km Blue flag beach is famous for its arching stone formations and that have been created by millennia of erosion, and remind one a little of the flying buttresses common in Gothic churches – hence the name of the beach. Walking around on these fine sands early in the morning, or taking photos from up on the grassy clifftops was a real treat. We visited at high tide, which meant we avoided the crowds, but at low tide more of the rock formations and caves are revealed, so you might prefer to time your visit for then.

Mondoñedo

A holy town on the Northern Route to Santiago, Mondoñedo‘s principal attraction is its Cathedral, which was recently declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. In larger towns and cities such a church normally lives under the shadows of towering skyscrapers, but in little old Mondoñedo the cathedral’s size versus the adjacent buildings is a reminder of how impressive such churches must have been when first constructed – this one was consecrated in 1248. Continuing the Galician theme of combining the sacred with the superstitious, Mondoñedo also has it’s very own Merlin “museum”. Staffed by one rather eccentric gentlemen it houses a random collection of second hand books, busts, miniatures, key rings, clogs and collectibles, which may or may not have something to do with the legendary magician.

Sobrado dos Monxes

Whilst the Sobrado abbey is still a functioning community, indeed one that welcomes pilgrims from the Camino into its albergue on a daily basis, the abbey’s vast adjoining church is empty and disused – but tourists can still enter. In fact seeing the interior of this vast place of worship stripped of all finery made it somehow seem grander and more spectacular than most churches in my eyes. The vaulted ceilings, immense pillars and ornate stonemasonry were laid bare to be admired in their relatively barren magnificence, whilst the moss and grasses that were growing out of the nooks and crannies of domes and windows gave the church a “remnants of a lost civilisation” aura. Epic stuff, and well worth a visit if you’re in the area.

Santiago de Compostela

All roads lead to Rome, but all Caminos lead to Santiago de Compostela. This city grew up around the shrine of St. Jame’s relics and indeed the name of the city literally means St. James of the Field of Stars, as it was said that stars appeared in the sky above the ground where a shepherd discovered the remains of the Apostle. It is a beautiful and serene town full of picturesque squares, church spires and parks as well as plenty of great restaurants, bars and traditional shops selling everything from Galician cakes to jewellery made out of jet stone (mined in neighbouring Asturias). Priests frequently pass by in jacket and clerical collar, old women amble past in tinted sunglasses and students make their way to lectures books in hand, or gather on cafe terraces for coffee. The only negative thing I can say about this charming city is that the sound of that infernal instrument, the bagpipes, is never far away. A torturous legacy of Galician’s celtic origins.

Cathedral of Santiago

Santiago’s Cathedral needs a special mention. Completed in 1211, like most such churches it was reformed and added to several times so that it’s architectural style is a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque. Each of its four facades are impressive, but especially that one that looks over Praza do Obradoiro square, the place pilgrims come to do collect their certificate and contemplate the magnitude of their journey. Every day at noon and 7:30pm the cathedral hosts a special pilgrims’ mass, attended by religious (and non-religious) travellers, during which the humungous silver Botamufeiro – the largest censer in the world – is swung on ropes over the congregation, dispensing holy incense. You can also visit of course the crypt where St. James is buried, or hug his statue by the altar. One of the most exciting things you can do though is take a guided tour up onto the roof of the cathedral. Here you can get amazing views over the city.

Pazo de Oca

Referred to as the “The Galician Versailles”, this manor house owes its appearance to 18th century refurbishment in the Baroque style, a refurbishment which also included the landscaping of its expansive gardens. I visited the latter and with their water features, hedgerows, flowers, sculptures and ceramics they make a great half day trip from nearby Santiago de Compostela. I particularly liked the duel ponds, representing heaven and hell… one with white swans and one with black swans. Guided tours of the palace can also be arranged for groups. More info here.

Galician Cuisine

It’s impossible to write a travel piece on Galicia without mentioning the region’s sensational cuisine. It might just be my favourite in Europe, starting with the seafood which is often fished in the region’s famous rias, dramatic estuaries where your future supper can suck up the nutrients of both fresh and salt water, making them extra tasty when they arrive on your plate. If you’ve spent any time in Spain already then you’ll have already come across pulpo de Gallego (known locally as pulpo à feira), which is fresh octopus prepared Galician style simply with olive oil, salt and paprika – when you’ve got such great ingredients at your disposal why complicate things? But it’s not just the seafood that’s succulent in these parts, Galicia was once known as the land where cows outnumbered people, and cattle breeding is still big business. Most of these cattle roam free and graze on organic crops perhaps explaining why the steak here is so good. Aside from both seafood and meat, great vegetables (pimientos del Padron are from here!), beans, bread, some decent beers and crisp delicious wines, such as Albarino, Ribeira and Mencia, all combine to offer something close to gastronomical nirvana. If you’re looking for some restaurant recommendations then I ate fantastic meals at A Tafona de Peregrino and Casa Marcelo (amazing modern Galician cuisine) in Santiago de Compostela, and Restaurante Montero just outside Mondoñedo. Bo proveito!

Duncan travelled to Galicia as part of the #InGreenSpain blogtrip across the four regions of North Spain, with the support of The Galician Tourist Office, Spain Tourism and The Travel Mob. All opinions expressed are his own.

About Duncan Rhodes

Duncan is the Editor-in-Chief of Urban Travel Blog, a born and bred city slicker who loves urban adventure, street art, killer bars and late night hotspots. More about Duncan here.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(85)

The post Galicia: The Sacred & The Supernatural appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

“Cider is the star of the Asturian gastronomy… not only because of the production, but also because of the culture it involves, and the way we live it,” explains Mario García Menéndez, of the Llanes Tourist Board.

He’s keen to impress on me that this effervescent apple juice is much more than a tasty alcoholic beverage, and that its delectation forms an important social ritual, starting with the famous manner of pouring the cider from high above into the glass – a feat that takes quite some dexterity – and finishing with the way it’s drunk, which is always down in one.

“Cider is the star of the Asturian gastronomy… not only because of the production, but also because of the culture it involves, and the way we live it.”

“We don’t let the cider die when it’s in the glass. Because the way you pour it from above, such as we do it, it gets oxygen in the air and then it hits the glass, so it breaks – that’s how we say it, we say it breaks. Then if you are talking you stop the conversation and you have 20 seconds of pleasure: to smell the sparkles, because they are alive, and then to taste the sparkles as well in the top of your mouth – that’s the time that the cider is alive for us!”

Unfortunately when Mario was explaining all this there was no bottle to hand, and so I have to wait until I reach the capital of Asturias, Oviedo, to share and taste this ritual myself at the Tierra Astur Ciderhouse. After first attempting a high pour myself (with the predictable outcome that I soak the table and my feet with barely a drop landing in the glass), I ask the local waiter to show me how it’s done. With the seriousness of someone performing a sacred ceremonial act, mixed with ill-concealed scorn for my own efforts, he holds the bottle high above his head with one hand, and with the other cups the bottom of the glass next to his hip, before proceeding to pour with uncanny accuracy, the hootch from container to vessel. As the sparkling libation fizzles with life, I recall Mario’s words, letting the bubbles tickle my nostrils before swigging down the sweet and tangy draught in one. I celebrate with a delicious fruity burp.

Remembering Mario’s other advice, I spill the few remaining drops of cider onto the floor, in time-honoured tradition. “Nowadays we share the bottle, but long ago, when the economy was poorer, we used to share the glass as well. What we used to do – and today we still do it as a symbol – we drink and the same place where we drink the cider from, we pour the final drops to the floor to clean the mouth of the glass.”

“Nowadays we share the bottle, but long ago… we used to share the glass as well. What we used to do – and today we still do it as a symbol – we drink, and the same place where we drink the cider from, we pour the final drops to the floor to clean the mouth of the glass.”

It’s hard to listen to Mario and not to picture a group of weathered and honest Asturian farmers from simpler days passing around a bottle, with one glass between them, in a rustic sidrería, its floor covered in sawdust to absorb the falling drops; or else imagine them out in the fields at one of the local fiestas that still take place in villages all across Asturias during summer, celebrating friendship, the land and life itself.

Enjoying this true taste of Asturias was just one of several great experiences I had during my travels in the region (part of a longer trip across the whole of North Spain), so let me whet your appetite for your own visit with some of the best things to see, visit and do in Spain’s cider country…

Highlights of Asturias

After an action-packed tour of the region, here are seven of my favourite attractions, including a wonderful boutique hotel.

Llanes

This small fishing town of 4,000 people was the first place I visited in Asturias and is a fantastic place to start your explorations of the region, not least because of the 32 beaches that crop up on just 45km of coast. The town itself is also very charming, with a port, attractive church, enclosed urban beach (the site of a volleyball tournament on my visit), a splash of nightlife and even poetry on the streets, but more than anything the town is the gateway to the region of the same name and some of the stunning scenery in the vicinity. In fact the scenery starts close to home with the dramatic cliff-top walk, known as the Paseo de San Pedro, where you can look out to the silvery blue sea from the top of a grassy bluff, or back over to the moody green mountains that rear up close behind the city. More info here.

Cycling The Coastline

From Llanes town we hired bikes and set off along the coastline to the nearby settlement of Niembro. It was one of the most memorable rides of my life, and not only because I managed to electrocute myself on an electric fence whilst taking a pee, but also because of the incredible beaches and unspoiled coastline I discovered en route. Azure waters lapped up gently onto satin smooth ochre sands, underneath craggy bluffs topped with green verdure. My favourite was Playa San Martin, which was lent additional romance by the crumbling remaining of an old hermitage perched atop of the cliffs. Best of all this stretch of beaches was almost completely deserted – even on a scorching hot Sunday in June! As someone who usually has to fight for a place to put their towel on the artificial sands of Barceloneta any time between May and September, the irony of seeing some of the most naturally beautiful beaches I’ve ever laid eyes on almost completely free of people was mind-boggling. The message: get thee to Asturias now!

Oviedo

Ever since Woody Allen’s Vicky Cristina Barcelona I’ve associated Oviedo with having threesomes with Scarlett Johansson and Rebecca Hall. Once I got over the initial disappointment of them not being there awaiting me in my hotel room however, I was able to enjoy the simple charms of the Asturian capital which Woody himself described as: “a delicious, exotic, beautiful, clean, pleasant, tranquil and pedestrianised city. It is as if it did not belong to this world, as if it did not exist … Oviedo is like a fairy-tale.” I probably wouldn’t go quite that far to be honest, however it is an undeniably good looking place that exudes a sleepy charm spiced up a bit by some boisterous drinking and singing in the local bars. Calle Gascona is known as “cider street” and the smell of fermented apples hangs thick in the air from all the bars and sidrerias. It’s probably the most touristic spot in the city, but I’d definitely advise going there for at least one meal if you’re town. Otherwise my favourite spot was Plaza del Fontan, an enclosed square with colourful blue balconies and shutters and plenty of restaurant terraces for making merry.

Peregrinando Oviedo

One fun and original thing I did in Oviedo was a theatrical tour by a company called Peregrinando Oviedo. Our guide was dressed in full medieval traveller’s garb and delivered the tour in the role of a holy pilgrim from these times, regaling us with stories of her journey and expressing her joy at arriving at Oviedo’s Cathedral of the Holy Saviour. And whilst Oviedo isn’t on the traditional Camino del Norte route, they say that he who neglects to pay a visit to this sacred city in their haste to get to Santiago “visits the servant (St. James), but not the Lord (Jesus Christ)”. If that wasn’t motivation enough to make a detour, Oviedo is also the start of a separate Camino route to Santiago, the so-called “Original” or “Primitive Way”, as it was from here that King Alfonso II of Asturias himself made the original journey in the 9th century to pay his respects to the newly found remains of the Apostle. This dramatic rendition of the travails of a pious traveller taught us all this and more, with a touch of humour, and even emotion, as our talented actress even shed real tears in her role of the pilgrim.

Cudillero, aka “El Pito”

This charming fishing village sits in a horseshoe-shaped bay, climbing up the cliff sides like the steps of an amphitheatre around the stage of the village’s central square. Little paths wiggle up around the slopes offering great views over town and sea, and even a few surprise discoveries en route. For example on one little path we came across a house brightly decorated top to bottom with shells, which turned out to be a tiny museum dedicated to a local artist whose life’s work was made up of crustacean collages. The artist had passed away, but his son lovingly maintains the museum as a tribute to his father’s creativity. We also said hello to a friendly local lady by the name of Clementina, a 91 year old pensioner who proudly showed us the inflight magazine that she had once featured in – a travel piece about Cudillero. As you might imagine of a fishing village, El Pito is not packed with things to do, besides admiring the freshly-painted houses, their eaves hanging with the drying skins of dogfish, or watching the local cats take in the sun, or enjoying a coffee at one of the many bars and restaurants on the square – but for taking it easy for an afternoon there could hardly be a finer place.

Hiking The Camino

The Camino del Norte, or Northern Way, is an alternative pilgrimage to the more established French Way of the Camino de Santiago. This 800km hike takes you across all four regions of North Spain, ie. The Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia, often next to the rugged unspoiled coastline and many reckon it to be a more beautiful – albeit a more difficult, and often wetter – route than the French Way. Here in Asturias I myself followed the trail from Lamuno to Soto de Luina, a hike that took me through woodland of bracken and pine and horse chestnut trees, and through fields with farms and the distinctive local granaries (set on pillars to stop the rats getting at them), as well as small villages. Even if you’re not a pilgrim I thoroughly recommend getting on the trail by foot, for at least a short stretch, to get to know this land in the most intimate way possible – one step at a time.

Luarca

Known as “the white town on the green coast”, Luarca is another attractive fishing village of white-washed houses on the Asturian coastline, but this time considerably bigger than Cudillero with a bit more to see. For me the most fascinating place was the historic slate table in the fisherman’s quarter where the sailors would meet each day. On mornings when the weather was particularly rough they would cast a vote on whether they should set sail that day, or stay at home, by placing a token into either a model ship or a model house. If more tokens were placed in the boat, off they sailed, more in the house and it was deemed safer to stay at home – fishing after all can be a dangerous business in these storm-filled waters. This was an early example of micro-democracy in action and indeed the community-minded locals also provided for the widows of dead seamen, by reserving them their fair share of any catch. Aside from learning about these old traditions I also loved the seaside cemetery, with its gleaming white gravestones overlooking the Atlantic, and the port itself was fun to spend some time in, with colourful boats moored to the quay and several bars full of a young people (watching Euro 2016 at the time of my visit). More info on Luarca here.

A Boutique Hotel

Designed by a pupil of none other than Antoni Gaudi, the Hotel Palacete Penalba is a whimsical yellow palace from 1912. On the occasion of my visit the hotel was thrown open just for myself and fellow bloggers from The Travel Mob and we raced each other up the red carpeted stairs to get the best rooms… but the truth is they were all amazing! Beds so big you might get lost in them, fin-de-siecle furniture, gilded mirrors, art nouveau touches to the decor, and classic works of literature laid out on tables and dressers, the place was full of fantasy. On the negative side neither the jacuzzi in my room, nor the wifi worked, so whilst the romance was there, the management could perhaps work on the mod-cons.

Duncan experienced Asturias as part of the #InGreenSpain blogtrip organised by The Asturian Tourist Board, Spain Tourism and The Travel Mob. All opinions expressed are his own.

About Duncan Rhodes

Duncan is the Editor-in-Chief of Urban Travel Blog, a born and bred city slicker who loves urban adventure, street art, killer bars and late night hotspots. More about Duncan here.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(85)

The post Sun, Sea, Sand… & Cider: Take Me To Asturias! appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.