I love Seville, I’ve been living here for five years after all. But there are only so many times you can marvel at the immense grandeur of the cathedral’s Giralda Tower or pad in rapture through the maze of water features in the Alcazar Palace.

Eventually you come to realise that the true essence of the city lies in those less frequented nooks and crannies that only nosey parkers like myself tend to find. But fear not, in this Secret Seven things to do in the Andalusian capital I’ll cut out the leg work for you and take you straight to the city’s clandestine treasures… where you’ll feel like you’re the only tourist in town.

UPDATE: But…. if it is your first time here, and you haven’t checked off this sultry southern city’s unmissable attractions you’ll find a “Famous Five” selection to go with this “Secret Seven”.

1# Visit A Flamenco Social Club

Ok, so it would be a missed opportunity to come to Seville and not see any flamenco. But forget the touristy ‘tablaos’ with their steep entry fees and head instead to a ‘peña’. Peñas are best described as a flamenco social club and are home to some of the most authentic flamenco on offer in the city. I love the Peña Cultural Flamenca Torres Macarena for its fighting spirit (it was temporarily closed down by the local council due to regular complaints by a non-flamenco loving neighbour), the beautiful, orange tree bedecked courtyard and the explosive and impassioned shows that guarantee quality on every visit. Performances are only on Wednesday evenings so for weekend flamenco try the Peña Níño de la Alfalfa. Top tip: be sure to stay until the end of proceedings to enjoy the ‘fin de fiesta’ in which any flamenco artists in the audience, dancers or otherwise are encouraged to take to the stage for a flamenco free-for-all.

If you don’t feel comfortable going to a concert independently then alternatively this tour by Get Your Guide teaches you about the history and traditions of flamenco, and finishes with an 1hr long show, accompanied with manzanilla wine tasting. Or better yet go the full distance and sign up for a flamenco dancing lesson!

2# Pelicano5 Art Collective

From Moorish times Seville has been a city where family life unfolds inside the cool, interior courtyards that form the heart of many traditional dwellings. This principle also extended to working life in the form of corralones, where craftsmen’s studios lined a private central area. The corralones continue to function to this day and range from those languishing in states of decaying splendour to modern ones constructed in Berlinesque minimalist lines (check out Rompe Moldes for an example of the latter). My favourite is the Corralón de Pelicano, in the San Julián district, lying just within the old city walls. Dating back to the 19^th Century, it was the city’s first industrial estate. But don’t be fooled by its olde worldy cobbles, geraniums in pots and images of the virgin; inside there beats a very modern, creative pulse with the artsy, collective Pelicano5 featuring contemporary artists, a mad inventor and an artisan, high-end carpenter.

3# La OSA Mallol Boutique

When shopping in Sevilla, forget the big name Spanish brands like Zara and Mango and go straight to local individual designers and their studios. My favourite is La OSA Mallol, comprising ex-architect Lourdes and her ingenious, multi-use, reversible designs and theatre costume designer Isa with her own one-off pieces for women, super cute kids’ line and exquisite, couture-clothed, character dolls. But La OSA Mallol’s creativity doesn’t stop there, and if you’re in town for a little longer you might want to check out one of their workshops on upcycling and dressmaking.

4# Paddle Down the River Guadalquivir

Seville is really stunning, but god do I wish it were closer to the sea. Still, it has got the beloved River Guadalquivir and instead of just strolling along the river banks, why not take a kayak tour where you can see the bridges from the bottom up and commune with the local flora and fauna. Local tour company Not Just a Tourist offers a two hour kayak tour along the closest thing Seville has to the sea, just make sure you pick a sensible time of the day to be out in the water as the midday Spanish sun can be cruel indeed. You can book the tour securely and at the best price via Get Your Guide. (Editor: and in doing so you’ll be putting a couple of euros in UTB’s pocket so we can commission more articles from our wonderful team of writers. Gracias queridos amigos!).

5# Estraperlo Organic Food & Tapas

Sevillanos vehemently defend their cuisine as not only being the best, but also the healthiest going. Frankly, I beg to differ as after a few days of mostly deep-fried fare, my intestines generally long for some fat-free days off. Imagine my delight then when I recently discovered ‘Estraperlo’ a shop selling organic produce which is so hidden away that even I didn’t know about it. Nestled in a shady courtyard in the hip Alameda de Hercules district, Estraperlo doesn’t just sell locally grown, organic produce; it also boasts a working kitchen at the back producing a daily tapas menu to be enjoyed in situ or taken away.

6# Experience An Intimate Concert

Seeing live music is a tricky business in Seville. It’s easy to imagine oneself stepping off the plane only to be greeted by a travelling troubadour playing flamenco guitar. But in reality the city’s live music scene rather precariously relies on unlicensed venues which open and close depending on the noise sensitivity of the neighbours. Thank goodness then for music promoters La Matraka who’ve creatively manoeuvred their way round these restrictions, making use of the city’s private spaces to lay on intimate, cultural events. Redetejas, currently in its 3^rd year, is a summer season of live music gigs, comedy and theatre across the city’s private roof terraces and recently launched, Myplayz uses the same principle to encourage culture lovers to host their own events in the comfort of their own home or workspace. It’s a bit like Airbnb, but for culture. (For more on this “micro culture revolution” trend check out our feature article).

7# Lonja de Feria Food Market

Most major Spanish cities have a traditional food market and if you really want to get up close and personal with some local characters then these lively food emporiums provide an opportunity to do just that – along with tasting some great grub of course. Seville’s Triana Market upped its game a while back by opening some hip bars, thus injecting a nightlife into what was once very much a daytime location. The latest to follow suit is the food market on Calle Feria, a stone’s through away from the Alameda de Hercules. Follow your nose to the far end of the 18^th century building and there amongst the fish stalls you’ll find a buzzing tapas bar. There’s something to suit all tastes, not just the fish and seafood lovers amongst us, so expect usual suspects such as giant pans of paella or black squid ink rice, oysters and sushi, plus fish free, handmade croquettes and summer, cold soups like salmorejo, gazpacho and ajoblanco. Thursday to Sunday evenings they lay on live music, usually of a jazz or flamenco bent.

This list a bit too hipster for you? Then no worries, we rounded up all of the more conventional attractions this town has to offer…

Famous Five

For those who want to mix authentic local travel, with seeing the unmissable sights, here are our top five attractions in Seville.

1# Seville Cathedral (and Bell Tower)

Of course when in Sevilla, you can’t miss the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, and the third largest church of any kind anywhere in the world (behind St. Peter’s in the Vatican, and the Shrine of Our Lady Aparecida in Brazil). It’s a truly monstrous megalith, made even grander still by La Giralda bell tower which climbs 104 metres into the sky beside it. You can buy skip the line tickets via Get Your Guide.

2# Alcazar Palace

If this place seems like a fantasy location from Game of Thrones… well that’s because it is. This magnificent palace was extensively renovated by Seville’s Christian rulers in the Moorish style, and its breathtaking opulence made it a perfect choice for the Water Gardens of Dorne in series five of George R.R Martin’s blockbuster. You can buy a guided tour, with skip the line ticket included via Get Your Guide.

Top tip: If you plan on seeing both the Cathedral and Alcazar Palace you can save some money using this combined ticket and tour.

3# Flamenco at Museo del Baile

We’ve touched on flamenco in point 1#, but you seriously… you can’t come to Seville and not experience Spain’s sensational sultry art form in its spiritual home. Museo del Baile offer a spectacular one hour show, three times a night, Monday to Saturday for as little as €22… grab your tickets here. For something even more refined book a tapas dinner at Patio Andaluz, with their 1.5 hour show, which runs every night of the week.

4# River Cruise

A little cheesy perhaps, but who doesn’t like a boat cruise? The tongue-twisting Guadalquivir river played a key role in Spain’s colonial history so this is a chance to float on its lazy waters and take in views of some of Seville’s most important monuments while you’re at it. One of the more fun things to do in town. Tickets are just €17.

5# Pueblos Blancos & Ronda (Day Trip)

Seville is no jewel in isolation. Andalusia has a very strong claim to be Spain’s most romantic region, and nothing says Iberian charm like its Pueblos Blancos (‘White Villages’). These traditional communities are almost untouched by the passage of time, and their gorgeous white washed walls, terracotta tiles and brightly coloured shutters are a joy to behold. Many of these pueblos even enjoy dramatic locations that further enhance their beauty, none more so than Ronda, which enjoys a spectacular roost on the top of a natural gorge. If you don’t have the time, means or money to hire a car, then jump on this highly rated day trip that makes exploring these Andalusian gems easy.

Still looking for more tips and inspiration? Then head over to our Seville city break feature which not only features advice on the best things to do and see, but also runs down the best hotels, restaurants and bars in town.

Keep Travelling…

If this post hit the spot, then be sure to drop by our other posts in the Secret Seven series, such as our cool things to do in Athens, hipster hang outs in Rome and some alternative suggestions for Berlin.

Feature photo by Breen Jones.

About Mary Biles

Originally from the Isle of Wight, Mary decided to upsticks and head south to Andalusia after discovering an affinity with Spain and its people. She lives in Seville where she delights in uncovering little known treasures. Read Mary's full bio here.

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As a tourist it’s normal to look for things that take your breath away and generally the real breath robbers tend to be big, bold and an assault on one’s senses. Indeed head to historic Andalusian capital, Seville and you’ll find all the major landmarks like the Giralda Tower or River Guadalquivir lined with selfie stick-wielding, holidaymakers vying for that iconic, photo opportunity.

However, Seville is also a city of small beauties, from the narrow streets in the Jewish Quarter where you can literally reach across and touch the other side, to the tiny, brightly lit bars housing a couple of wizened, chain smoking, old men and a toilet so tiny you can’t sit down and close the door at the same time.

But in recent months the rich beauty of life in miniature has broadened out to the city’s cultural scene, where small and intimate is also getting a look-in.

Teeny, Tiny Theatres

Theatre was the first to embrace the ‘mini-trend’ with the opening of CasaLa Teatro, in Triana Market just over three years ago. With its 28 red, velvet seats once belonging to the much grander Lopez de Vega theatre, the tiny Teatro CasaLa claims to be the smallest theatre in Spain and is certainly one of the most unique. Housed in what were once two adjoining butchers’ stands, it has a programme packed with cultural delicacies such as live concerts, comedy, theatre and – uniquely in Seville – lunchtime flamenco. There’s no luxurious, backstage area for the artists performing at the CasaLa. Performers have to enter stage through the very same door as the punters and the resulting close proximity leads to a feeling of warm, cosy, familiarity.

Performers have to enter stage through very same door as the punters…

Another fashion in theatre that’s been growing in force across Spain and Latin America is that of ‘Micro-Theatre’. What started as a sell-out, artistic experiment in an ex-brothel in Madrid, where several theatre companies produced stand-alone 15 minute plays to tiny audiences, has rapidly gained in popularity, so much so that this year Microteatro Sevilla opened its doors.

Microteatro Sevilla is perfect for a night when you want a bit of ‘cultcha’ but can’t face or afford sitting through two hours of brow-furrowing drama.

Just a stone’s throw from the controversial, modern architecture construction Las Setas, it’s a buzzing, modern tapas bar (i.e. expect tapas on slates not plates) that from Thursday-Sunday plays home to a full programme of short, snappy vignettes in the specially designed rooms upstairs. Microteatro Sevilla is perfect for a night when you want a bit of ‘cultcha’ but can’t face or afford sitting through two hours of brow-furrowing drama. It does help however if you have a smattering of Spanish as fifteen minutes can feel like an eternity when you’ve no idea why everyone’s splitting their sides with laughter – and in microteatro there’s nowhere to hide your confusion.

Mini Music Revolution

Seville has traditionally lent itself to small and intimate performances through its rich, live music scene. Grassroots flamenco was born out of those neighbourhood bars where on any average night you’d catch a slightly inebriated, teary-eyed, ensemble singing until their hearts or indeed vocal chords burst. But such spontaneous musical moments are growing few and far between these days. Bars that for many years played host to live music performances, albeit without a legal permit, now risk hefty fines and possible closure, whilst neighbours are quicker to exercise their legal right and call the police, the result being that the city is in danger of losing its musical pulse.

Step in musical events company La Matraka. They got creative about shaking up Seville’s cultural scene three years ago when they started ‘Redetejas’, a series of summer, rooftop events using private roof terraces across the city. But their latest project ‘Myplayz‘ is possibly the most innovative and exciting. Just launched this summer it bills itself as a ‘revolution in culture’ in which a web-based community of users create and attend their own cultural events from private locations (getting round those pesky licensing issues). Basically it’s an AirBnB for culture where ‘hosts turn their living rooms into a theatre, a garage into a cinema or a garden into a concert venue’. If you’re new in town, it’s a great way to make new friends and shake off that soul destroying feeling of being a faceless, nobody in the crowd. Plus you get to enjoy some exciting, cultural happenings that most of the city’s residents are oblivious to.

…it’s an AirBnB for culture where ‘hosts turn their living rooms into a theatre, a garage into a cinema or a garden into a concert venue’.

Myplayz is very much in its infancy and right now can only be found in Seville, but the idea is that eventually wherever you are in the world, you will be able to access secret, unique, cultural events where there is no money-making middleman. You just need to register online, express an interest in an event and then, based on your profile, the host will decide if you’ve made it to the list of the lucky few who can attend.

So there you have it, who said bigger was better? If you want to be on trend in Andalucia’s capital, forget mixing with the hoi polloi and go small and intimate.

If you’re heading to Sevilla, don’t forget to check out our Long Weekend city break guide, whereas elsewhere in Spain we’ve covered Barcelona’s xampanyerias, San Sebastian’s top tapas restaurants and Madrid’s dusk ’til dawn nightlife. 

About Mary Biles

Originally from the Isle of Wight, Mary decided to upsticks and head south to Andalusia after discovering an affinity with Spain and its people. She lives in Seville where she delights in uncovering little known treasures. Read Mary's full bio here.

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Main Attractions	Getting Here
Hipsters Guide	More Info
Events & More	Read This
Hotels & Beds	Watch This
Food & Restaurants	Listen To This
Bars & Clubs	City Map

I’d like you to take a moment, close your eyes and conjure up an image of Spain. I don’t mean the naff Costa del Sol nonsense, or the ‘so cool you could be anywhere’ feel of Barcelona, but the real Spain, where the air is thick with a heady mixture of orange blossom and cured ham, fiery emotions are forever bubbling behind dark, expressive eyes, and impromptu outbursts of flamenco pepper the hot, endless nights.

So when in Seville, do as the Sevillanos do, promenade proudly along the river, grab yourself a cervecita (teeny tiny glass of beer) and see where the night takes you.

Best of the Beaten Track

Seville has played host to a series of contrasting cultures from its Roman origins, followed by 500 years of Islamic occupation, and culminating in the Christian reconquest in the 13^th century. The city’s architecture reflects its diverse history, no more so than The Cathedral built under the Christians, but housing the Moorish minaret known as the Giralda. Nearby you can also visit the stunningly beautiful Alcázar Palace, which, despite its decidedly Islamic appearance, dates almost entirely from the Christian period, before heading up to the Barrio Santa Cruz, the old Jewish quarter, where you can while away hours losing yourself in the bewildering network of narrow streets, book-ended by verdant, forgotten plazas.

If your legs can’t carry you any further you can hop into one of the plethora of horses and traps which will transport you to the further flung notable landmarks, such as Plaza de España, originally a site for burning heretics, but now a vast, ornate plaza designed to celebrate the Latin Iberico Fair in 1929. And while you’re there it’s the perfect opportunity to wander around Parque Maria Luisa, where gargantuan trees and an elaborate network of fountains provide the perfect respite from the often unbearable heat of summer. And don’t forget to hop across the river to the working class neighbourhood of Triana, once home to the gypsy community, it holds a special magic all of its own.

And to finish off your day and further soak up the intense mix of cultural influences that make up modern day Seville, a visit to Casa de la Memoria is a must to enjoy some top quality flamenco, performed by award winning young artists in an intimate 15^th Century converted palace. However, it’s not for a rowdy sangria supping crowd (if you fall in that category then you´re best heading to the Carboneria in Santa Cruz), so only go if you are ready to lose yourself completely (and soberly) in the intense, visceral passion of the art.

Hipster’s Guide

Seville isn’t exactly awash with overtly too-cool-for-school places to hang out, but of late there has been an increased number of skinny jeans, ‘interesting’ glasses and side partings spotted out and about, which can only mean one thing: the hipsters have finally landed. Their natural habitat tends to be within a 5 minutes radius of controversial modern architecture construction ‘The Setas’ (mushrooms), so why not take an hour to ascend in the glitzy lifts and stroll around the undulating walkway with magnificent views of the city, before descending once more to immerse yourself in the pockets of ‘cool’ nearby.

First stop is a little stretch of side streets between Plazas Encarnación and Alfalfa, that have been cleverly branded Soho Benita by a group local businesses. Comprising a selection of shops selling street wear, vintage and handmade one-off pieces, plus some gastro tapas bars and boutique hotels, most of the action takes place on Calle Pérez Galdos. Cut back across Plaza Encarnación under the shade of the giant mushrooms to Calle Regina, alive with quirky clothes shops and places to lounge and chew the fat such as the Cacharreria that serves the best cake in town. And if lounging is your thing, then no where beats new kid on the block Red House Art and Food on Calle Amor de Dios, a very of-the-moment café and art space, where you can chill out on the sofa while admiring the experimental art work, and take both home with you at the end of the night, at a price of course.

For a run down of the several more alternative activities in town check out our, ssshhh, Secret Seven attractions.

Experience & Events

There are two main events that mark the Sevillian calendar: Semana Santa (Easter) and The April Fair. If over-the-top, medieval religious festivals aren’t your bag, then it’s Feria de Abril all the way. In a nutshell ‘La Feria’ is a six day drinking and dancing marathon where the women dress up in vibrant flamenco dresses, everyone drinks rebujito (a mixture of manzanilla sherry and lemonade) by the gallon, immaculate horses parade around ridden by men carrying the aforementioned flamenco-dressed women behind them, and multi-generational families enjoy the traditional dance of Sevillanas until they drop.

Sounds like fun right? There is one catch: all this takes place inside over 1,000 colourful, wooden marquees (casetas), most of which are private, so if you just rock up, you’ll be left with the feeling that there’s a great party going on and you haven’t been invited. But that’s where Not Just A Tourist come in. Sign up to one of their Feria tours and as well as giving you the low down on the event’s origins and history, they’ll also make the experience that bit more memorable by getting you into a selection of casetas where you can quaff rebujito and eat tapas til your heart’s content, away from the heaving masses.

For something just as local, but more contemporary, check out our feature on the intimate live concerts and micro theatre performances that you can catch around the city.

Finally those with a little more time on their hands might want to head to the ruined Roman city of Italica, just 9km north of the city. This detailed guide to Italica and other Roman ruins in Andalusia has plenty of useful tips.

Pillow Talk

Depending on what time of year you’re visiting Seville the requirements of your hotel will vary. From June onwards if at all possible, try to find somewhere with a pool. At the top end of the market is uber stylish EME which boasts the best terraza in Seville where you can almost reach out and touch the cathedral, plus a reasonable sized swimming pool to cool off in. If your budget is more modest but a pool is a deal breaker, try Hotel Itaca, near Plaza Encarnación,  or the Moorish style Alcoba del Rey where instead of a pool you can find an outdoors jacuzzi on the terrace, perfect for the cooler months. And if splashing around on roof terraces isn’t your thing the Soho Boutique Hostel offers both doubles and four-bedded rooms in a stylish setting; or why not try a hostel with a twist at the Caja Habitada in the Alameda which regularly plays host to cultural events such as exhibitions, theatre and gigs.

Fork Out

Sevillians are resolutely proud of their cuisine, but it’s all too easy to have a bad dining experience, particularly if you find yourself near the cathedral. So head to the Alameda de Hercules district where quality combines with decent prices, and eateries offer interesting diversions from the traditional tapas staples. You can’t go wrong with sibling tapas bars Duo Tapas and Sidonia on Calle Calatrava with stand out dishes being the tuna tartar, gorgonzola gnocchis and king prawn capirotes. If you want to go for a more romantic vibe, then Al Aljibe on the Alameda itself has a beautiful courtyard, perfect for stolen kisses over a crisp glass of Albariño. And don’t forget to start the day with a breakfast fit for a king: lightly toasted bread drenched in virgin olive oil, topped with juicy tomatoes and optional serrano ham.

Drop In

A night out in Seville basically begins outside one of the many bars lining the Alameda de Hercules. Current crowd pullers are Corral de Esquivel, Café Central and Sonoro, but a rule of thumb is to choose the bar with the most people outside, buy a few ice cold Cruz Campo beers and settle in for a few hours of light lubrication. For a change of vibe meander up the road to La Bicicleteria on Calle Feria, which is a tiny deep red vortex of a bar filled with a mind-bending mix of eccentric characters, random decorations and the best music in town, where you feel like literally anything could happen, and by 5am it generally does. And then if you’ve still got some wind in your sails and the urge to bust some grooves there are basically two options: stay in the Alameda and cry into your cerveza at the woeful establishments passing themselves off as nightclubs, or hop in a cab to either Sala Cosmos or Obbio , where you’ve got your best chance of hearing some half decent DJs.

Getting There & Around

Check out flight options with the usual low cost air companies such as Ryanair, EasyJet and Vueling. If you’re already in Spain you can use the rail or bus networks which often work out cheaper, including the AVE which if booked enough in advance doesn’t always break the bank.

More Juice

For help planning your city break you can check out the official tourist website, which is Visita Sevilla or there are quite a few ex-journalists and writers who have settled in Seville who, through their blogs, give you the low down on life in the city. Take a look at: Azahar-sevilla.com, Seville-traveller.com or my own Iknowalittleplaceinseville.blogspot.com. For the latest tips on what’s going on check the monthly entertainment listings in Giraldillo or Yuzin magazines. Most bars will have a copy.

Hard Copy

If you feel the need to have a guidebook in hand, then the usual favourites of the Rough Guide, Lonely Planet and Time Out do the trick and crime thrillers ´The Seville Communion´ by Arturo Perez-Reverte and ‘The Blind Man of Seville’ by Robert Wilson might also get you into the mood.

Silver Screen

Seville’s Moorish architecture has made it the perfect place to film historically based movies such as Ridley Scott’s The Kingdom of Heaven and more recently Plaza de España has been used in Sacha Baron Cohen’s The Dictator and Star Wars Episode II – The Attack of the Clones. But if you want to see the city as a backdrop for some crazy car chases, then take a peek at Tom Cruise´s action movie Knight and Day.

Soundtrack to the City

Yo me quedo en Sevilla – Pata Negra
Sevilla tiene un color especial – Los del Rio
Sevilla – Rocio Jurado and Placido Domingo
Que tambien es de Sevilla – Los Marismeños
Rumba Precaria – El Callejon del Gato

We selected Seville as one of the best European destinations for a romantic getaway. Read the article to see where else we recommend for lovebirds. For more stories and tips on Seville click here.

About Mary Biles

Originally from the Isle of Wight, Mary decided to upsticks and head south to Andalusia after discovering an affinity with Spain and its people. She lives in Seville where she delights in uncovering little known treasures. Read Mary's full bio here.

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