Main Attractions	Getting Here
Hipsters Guide	More Info
Events & More	Read This
Hotels & Beds	Watch This
Food & Restaurants	Listen To This
Bars & Clubs	City Map

“Magiczny Krakow” (Magical Krakow) is how Poles refer to their ancient capital (Warsaw only took over in 1596), and the epithet fits in more ways than one. Yes, there are tales of shoe-makers slaying dragons, alchemists riding around town on giant cockerels and devils lurking in the city’s warren of cellars, but you needn’t resort to using your imagination to experience the magic of this city… you’ll see it in the twin towers of St. Mary’s Basilica glazed by the setting sun, you’ll feel it in the candlelit cafes as you tuck into tasty szarlotka (apple pie) and grzaniec (mulled wine), and you’ll soak it in up in scenic squares and courtyards on hot summer’s days, cold beer in hand.

After surviving WWII pretty much intact – and despite growing a curious appendage called Nowa Huta during Communism – Krakow came out the other side of a turbulent 20th Century in surprisingly good shape. No wonder that by the early noughties the city, with its preserved medieval Old Town, had well and truly been ‘discovered’ by the West and flocks of tourists started to outnumber the pigeons (or should that be heroic knights?) on the Market Square. With Poland’s spiritual heart, Wawel Castle, sitting imperiously on the river Wisla, and both the Wieliczka Salt Mines and Auschwitz close at hand there’s little danger of them leaving any time soon. If you’re planning on jumping on the bandwagon (and this one is worth the ride!), then the best time to go is in spring or autumn when the city’s 200,000 odd academics gift the city a youthful energy and the nightlife is at its most frenetic; whilst for sheer snowy romance December and the Christmas markets are also plenty of fun.

Best of the Beaten Track

Krakow’s Old Town is full of wonderful sights and the curious will be rewarded for throwing away the guide book and poking their nose down seemingly uninviting alleyways and up inconspicuous stairwells. Of the city’s most celebrated cultural attractions I would opt for the sensational stained glass of Stanislaw Wyspianski over the altar of Veit Stoss (found at St. Francis’ and St. Mary’s Basilica respectively) – especially as the former is free to view! And I would say the National Museum, with its collection of 20 Century Polish art, just edges the Czartoryski, despite the latter’s crowd-pleasing collection of ancient Egyptian artefacts and one work of Da Vinci’s. This itinerary will also give you a chance to cast your eye over the open Blonia common (next to the National), a picturesque green swathe of the city and a favourite with keep-fitters.

Of course it would be downright rude to come to Krakow and not to pay your respects to the ancient seat of the nation, the Wawel Castle (…and for Hindus the resting place of one of seven chakra stones cast by Lord Shiva). In the crypt of the complex’s cathedral lie Poland’s kings and queens of old, and it’s also worth climbing the tower for a look at the Zygmunt bell. Be sure to make your way out of the castle via the dragon’s lair… you’ll emerge from this cavern at the bottom of Wawel hill where a bronze incarnation of the monster awaits. Text ‘SMOK’ to 7168 to make the beast belch fire!

Hipster’s Guide

For a long time Plac Nowy in Kazimierz held sway as the patch for Krakow’s arty kids to hang out and compare existential crises, and, although you’ll find more of a cross section of characters inhabiting the area these days, there’s still plenty for aspiring Bohemians to wax lyrical about in the holy trinity of Alchemia, Singer and Mleczarnia. Sadly however it’s getting harder and harder to find such charismatic cafes amongst the depressingly formulaic ‘trendy’ bars that have sprung up around them.

These days if you want to be avant garde in Krakow you’re probably best crossing the river over to Podgorze, a much-maligned district (it was after all the site of the infamous Jewish Ghetto under the Nazis) that is undergoing a slow resurgence (Podgorze photos here!). Leading the cultural charge are the Starmach Gallery, Drukarnia Jazz Club (where you might even hear a concert of ‘new klezmer’ music) and a renovated Schindler’s Factory which now forms a branch of the History Museum and holds a permanent exhibition on Krakow under Nazi occupation. Whilst bolstering the bar and nightlife scene is the uberhip Forum Przestrzenie, which enjoys a beachside location on the river Wisla in the former Communist-era Hotel Forum. On a fine day take a walk, via Bednarksi Park, to the Kopiec Krakusa – a pagan burial mound dedicated to Prince Krak, which affords splendid views over the entire city.

Experience & Events

Krakow’s cultural calendar gets fatter on a yearly basis but two mainstays worth travelling for are Unsound Festival (every October) and Photomonth (held every May). The former provides electronic music geeks with shoe-gazing sounds and audiovisual odysseys (if that’s your bag baby); the latter is a whole month dedicated to photography, with participating cultural venues, plus a fair few bars and cafes, turning the city into a gigantic exhibition space.

Whereas it’s hard to avoid the feeling of being a tourist on a standard walking tour, a more energetic and engaging alternative can be to take to two wheels… the beach-cruising bikes of Cruising Krakow are ideal for taking in all the major sights whilst hearing some entertaining tales and trivia. Alternatively take a ride in an East German Trabant to the Communist district of Nowa Huta (click on the link for our report!) with the Crazy Guides gang. They’ll give you a history lesson you won’t want to sleep through! For a full range of options head over to this page on Krakow tours.

Pillow Talk

With frescoed ceilings, a rooftop terrace and a moodily-lit pool in the basement the Stary represents the cream of Krakow’s hotels. For something slightly more affordable the Grodek enjoys a quiet cul-de-sac location in the heart of the Old Town – and once put up former president Lech Walesa, and his twenty-strong retinue of moustache combers. For independent living talk to the aptly named Krakow Apartments. Finally, at the budget end of the price spectrum there are no shortage of quality youth hostels. Try Giraffe or Tom and Gregs.

Fork Out

At least one of your meals in Krakow should be taken at a milk bar, Communist-style lunch canteens where surly babcias (grandmothers) dish up stodgy Polski classics like barszcz, golabki, nalesniki and pickled cabbage. These much-loved institutions range from kitsch rural-style restaurants like Babcia Malina’s to grotty 70s bars where huge helpings of grub can be exchanged for just a handful of zloty. On a similar “cheap and cheerful” tip you would be well advised to check out our top five pierogi bars report.

For something much fancier, but still affordable, you can’t go far wrong with Pod Aniolami, set in a wonderful cellar on the Market Square. Try the grilled oscypek (sheep’s cheese). Whilst Farina is a much-vaunted seafood restaurant with an intimate atmosphere that offers a perfect prelude to attempted underwear removal. However, you really want to pull out the stops head to the romantic garden at La Campana, on the equally romantic Kanonicza street, for the finest Italian cuisine in town.

Those that have already upgraded their travels to Tourism 2.0 should check out the Krakow-based start up Eataway, a peer to peer platform where you can sign up for a meal in the house of a local.

Drop In

Krakow’s nightlife may lack the scope and diversity of Warsaw up the road, let alone London and Berlin, but for a wild weekend it might be harder to find a better party destination. The Old Town (allegedly) has the highest concentration of bars and clubs in the universe and with so many venues within stumbling distance of one another, low/no cover charges, liberal opening hours and the fabled-amongst-British-stag-parties ‘cheap beer and fit birds’ you’d have to be a miserable git of epic proportions not to have fun. Bomba and Pauza are two great choices for warming up, attracting both local scenesters and in-the-know tourists, whilst Cien is the perfect place to practice your pick up lines with the city’s pin ups. The legendary Prozak is also back, with a 2.0 in tow. Finally, Where2b has all the info on the best midweek parties, plus publishes party pics and more nightlife naughtiness.

For even more suggestions refer back to the Hipster’s Guide section, for recommended places to drink away from the circus of the Old Town, or our Top Five Cellar Bars in Krakow for drinking underground.

Getting There

The economic crisis plus some stiff competition has put paid to some cheap airline routes, but you can still fly into Krakow from many a major city with Ryanair and Easyjet, whilst Wizzair fly to Katowice nearby. BA and LOT also operate. An express train links Krakow to Warsaw, whilst clunky Communist-era carriages will get you, albeit not in a hurry, to the likes of Wroclaw, Poznan, Gdansk, Lodz and Lublin (see our City Guides on each!). Whilst overnight international train services to Prague and Budapest are handy for backpackers on a grand tour of East Europe. Lviv, across the border in Ukraine, is also a train ride away.

More Juice

Cracow Life is your one-stop shop for all your travel needs, from restaurant reviews to hotel reservations – their online events listings also appear in lime-green map form so pick up a copy in the city. The City Spy and In Your Pocket guides are also valuable, and the Krakow Post has the latest local and regional news. And, as one of our favourite cities, you’ll find plenty more articles about Krakow right here.

Hard Copy

Krakow’s great novel still hasn’t been written (which could be something to do with the intoxicating distraction of the city’s nightlife), however you can still get in the Polish groove by reading the translated works of greats such as Gombrowicz, Isaac Bashevis Singer or Sienkiewicz. Cracow Life has more book recommendations here.

Silver Screen

Famously parts of the Oscar-winning Schindler’s List were shot in both Kazimierz and Podgorze.

Soundtrack to the City

Krakow – Myslovitz and Marek Grechuta
Close Your Eyes – Smolik feat. Kasia Kurzawska
Kazimierz – Nigel Kennedy & Kroke
Soldier On – Don’t Ask Smingus
Drift Motion – New Century Classics
Bracka – Grzegorz Turnau

City Map

We selected Krakow as one of our favourite cheap city breaks as well as one of Europe’s most romantic destinations. Check out the articles for more great suggestions, or browse all our travel guides.

About Duncan Rhodes

Duncan is the Editor-in-Chief of Urban Travel Blog, a born and bred city slicker who loves urban adventure, street art, killer bars and late night hotspots. More about Duncan here.

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The post Long Weekend: Krakow appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Krakow boasts almost as many attractions as it does (low-flying) pigeons, and just on the Main Market Square alone you’ll find the resplendent red-bricked Mariacki Cathedral with its non-identical twin towers, the elongated cream and terracotta arcades of the Sukiennice cloth market, the clock-mounted Ratusz Town Hall tower (which you can climb for great views of the city!) and the iconic “Eros Bound” statue – a favourite with kids who like to climb inside it. Meanwhile a short walk down the Royal Way will take you to the chakra-licious Wawel Castle, the burial place of Polish Kings and a great spot to languidly gaze over the River Wisla.

Further afield and a visit to the Auschwitz and Birkenau Death Camps is a sombre pilgrimage most will want to undertake, whilst the UNESCO-listed Salt Mines are a unique marvel, also easily accessible on a day trip. But enough of the mainstream sites… we’ve already covered all these on our Long Weekend to Krakow guide!

This post is all about those alternative attractions, original tours, hip venues and cool things to do that Rick Steves ain’t got the foggiest about…

1# Eat Lunch With A Local

Restaurants are so passé in Poland… when in Krakow travellers can opt for the personal touch of eating dinner at a local’s house, thanks to entrepreneurial start-up Eataway.com. The concept is simple, local amateur chefs around the city announce the time and place (usually their own house) along with what’s on the menu, and guests sign up and pay. It’s like Airbnb for eating! Apart from outstanding home-cooked food, there’s a chance to make friends with the host and fellow diners that a formal meal in a restaurant simply can’t offer.

2# Pop Over To Podgorze

We love the old Jewish district of Kazimierz, but long gone are the days when this wonderful district could be seen as an “alternative” area to hang out in the city. These days that mantle probably should go to Podgorze. Established during the Austro-Hungarian Empire as a separate city to Krakow, across the river Vistula, the district is most famous for housing the Jewish Ghetto during World War II during the Nazi Occupation of Poland. Perhaps its tragic history also explains why it was neglected for so long, even after the fall of Communism gave other parts of Krakow a chance to regenerate. Today that history is certainly not forgotten, as remnants of the ghetto wall have been preserved and Oskar Schindler’s Factory has been turned into a museum about the Occupation, however there’s also plenty of new life in the barrio too. Hip new cafes like BAL keep Krakow’s cool cats caffeinated whilst Cinema Paradiso goes one step further by screening free cult cinema as well. Despite these new joints my favourite Podgorze hang out is still the old fashioned Drukarnia Jazz Club, one of the first bars to set up on this side of the river. When in Podgorze you should also check out Krakus Mound, which brings me to…

3# Climb Krakow’s Mounds

One of Krakow’s most original features are its four “mounds“, the most famous of which is the Krakus Mound, whose 9th century pagan origins are unknown but is said to be the burial place of Prince Krak the legendary founder of the city. Found in Podgorze it’s just about within walking distance of the centre and commands great views over the city. A more modern mound was built in the 19th century to honour one of Poland’s favourite sons, Tadeusz Kościuszko, who fought both in the American War of Independence and led a sadly ill-fated uprising against the Russians in 1794 and was described by Thomas Jefferson as “the purest son of liberty that I have ever known.” His mound is even grander than Krak’s and heading there makes for a pleasant stroll in the leafy Salwator district.

4# Hang Out At Forum

As you cross the Grunwaldzki Bridge your hipster radar should start to sound with steadily louder bleeps. FORUM Przestrzenie is arguably Krakow’s best hangout: a beach bar, restaurant, club and cultural space in the foyer of what was once the Communist-era Hotel Forum (the very place the regime would place visiting foreigners so that they could keep an eye on them). Whether you just fancy hanging out on deckchairs by the river drinking bio-lemonades during a sunny day, or you fancy popping by at night when DJs spin a crossover of urban sounds, there’s nearly always a great vibe at Forum. The fact that it’s slightly out of the Old Town helps keep it relatively tourist free… so ssshhh, let’s keep it that way.

5# Hitch A Ride To Nowa Huta

A pioneer of alternative tourism, “Crazy” Mike Ostrowski was working as a hotel receptionist in the early 00s when two American tourists asked him to show them a different side of Krakow. He picked them up in the iconic Polish deathtrap that is the Maluch Fiat 500 and drove them to the Communist district of Nowa Huta, a purpose built Soviet city built around a steelworks considered a no-go zone by many Cracovians. The Americans loved it and lo and behold Crazy Guides were born. Now one of the Krakow’s most popular tours (but so cool we had to still recommend it!) the chance to jump in an old East German Trabant, trundle off to Nowa Huta and visit a Communist-era flat and restaurant and even enjoy a shot of vodka and a pickled cucumber is not to be missed. Check out our first hand report for more info or go ahead and book your space via Get Your Guide!

6# Party At The Unsound Festival

If you haven’t booked your flights already, then consider timing your visit with October when the Unsound Festival brings a dark wave of audio madness into some of the city’s most intriguing spaces. Museums, churches and bars become the stage for experimental electronica by a roster of cutting edge artists which your mum has never heard of (and quite possibly you neither – it’s definitely a contender for the most hipster festival on the planet). The event is always great fun and the opening and closing parties are usually some of the best shindigs of the year in the city. The same team have just opened a nightclub in conjunction with the aforementioned FORUM Przestrzenie, so even if you’re not in town for October you can catch a flavour of Unsound there instead…

7# Cycle Out to Tyniec

Aside from offering a highly recommended city tour, from March to October bike company Cruising Krakow also lead a “country tour” out to the rather lovely 11th Century Benedictine Abbey of Tyniec which is around 12km outside of the town centre. The route takes you on a picturesque route along the Vistula river, passing fields, woodland, lakes and crumbling forts as you go. After a hearty lunch, and maybe small beer, at the Abbey, you’ll way your way back to Krakow stopping at Zakrzowek, a water-filled quarry, for a photogenic sunset. Cyclists keen to go further than 24km might prefer to hire a set of wheels from Cruising Krakow and make their own way to the gorgeous natural park of Ojcow instead.

So there you have it… seven fun things to do in Krakow aside from the main attractions. In fact if you take a little look around our blog you’ll even find some more cool suggestions like these subterranean cellar bars, some top spots for trying Polish pierogi, some places where you can listen to new and classic Klezmer music and a few more stories besides. And don’t forget our Long Weekend guide is a compact guide to everything you need to know for a Krakow city break.

For more in this series check out our Secret Seven to Brighton, our guide to alternative Athens and this look at some of New York’s hidden treasures.

About Duncan Rhodes

Duncan is the Editor-in-Chief of Urban Travel Blog, a born and bred city slicker who loves urban adventure, street art, killer bars and late night hotspots. More about Duncan here.

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The post Secret Seven: Krakow appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

For centuries Krakow’s Kazimierz district was the cultural, spiritual and physical home of the city’s Jews – some 64,000 before the Second World War, to be exact. This is why it’s known as the city’s Jewish Quarter to this day, and the place to go to visit historic synagogues, some of which are holding regular services again, and to witness the revitalization of the Yiddish community at the Jewish Community Centre.

Since the 90s, Kazimierz became known as the hip, laid-back alternative to an Old Town overrun by tourists, and many of its cafes and bars have become local icons.

But there’s more to Kazimierz than its Jewish past. After the war devastated the local population, the neighbourhood gained a reputation as the rough part of town, but low rents and its proximity to the Old Town soon attracted brave artists, writers and other assorted bohemians. Since the 90s, Kazimierz became known as the hip, laid-back alternative to an Old Town overrun by tourists, and many of its cafes and bars have become local icons. Today, Kazimierz is no longer the hidden jewel in Krakow’s crown due to huge international events such as the Jewish Culture Festival, which draw tens of thousands of revellers every summer, but it is still a place where life moves a little more slowly than in the rest of the city.

By Day

The charm of Kazimierz lies in its many cafes and shops that are still frequented by locals. The best place to get a taste of this lifestyle (because Kazimierz really is a lifestyle, just ask anyone who’s lived there for a few years), is at the market on Plac Nowy. It’s busiest on the weekends, when more vendors are trading, and you can buy or browse through everything from fresh fruit and veggies to vintage records and clothing, and not forgetting Soviet-era postcards and other memorabilia.

Kazimierz really is a lifestyle, just ask anyone who’s lived there for a few years…

If you’re more in the mood to sit and take in the surroundings, grab an outside or window-adjacent table at Kolory on the same square. This à la française café boasts an eccentric mix of clientele as well as delicious cakes to go with your cappuccino.

Being in Krakow = I'm happy again #krakow #streetart #poland #travel #kazimierz #singingintherain #happyagain #utb

A photo posted by Duncan Rhodes | UTB (@urbantravelblog) on Aug 15, 2015 at 2:19pm PDT

Of course, to get the full Kazimierz experience, you should at least get a taste of its Jewish past, and the best way to do that is by visiting some of its historic synagogues, such as the Old Synagogue or the Remuh Synagogue and cemetery and the one time central square of Szeroki street (now home to several Jewish restaurants of varying quality). Whilst the revival of Krakow’s Jewish community is one of the most important developments in Poland’s recent history and the best place to experience it is at the Jewish Community Centre, which regularly hosts events open to all, Jew and Gentile alike. Music lovers should also keep eyes and ears peeled for a klezmer, or even “new klezmer”, concert. Check out our report for more.

By Night

Kazimierz has tons to offer at night, from clubs and bars that run until the morning hours to more family-friendly entertainment like bowling or pool. Most of it happens on Plac Nowy, the district’s central square, which is where you’ll find the perfect starting point: Alchemia. This legendary café, bar, venue and now restaurant is where generations of Cracovians have been meeting for decades, whether for a drink or to see one of the town’s local bands play on its basement stage.

One very recent and definitely welcome development in Kazimierz has been the abundance of craft beer bars popping up. A great place to sample both Polish and foreign specialty brews is Omerta, which not only features a Godfather theme to it, but also has two separate two bars, one only serving Polish beers, as well as a selection of flavoured vodkas (nalewki in Polish), and a second selling a selection of foreign brews that would put most bars to shame. Other locales specializing in craft beers include newly-opened independent brewery and pub Ursa Maior, Strefa Piwa with its 20 taps, or Stara Zajezdnia, which is a brewpub housed in an old tram depot.

One very recent and definitely welcome development in Kazimierz has been the abundance of craft beer bars popping up.

The newest (and some would say hippest) part of the district to become popular is the stretch of Mostowa Street leading from Plac Wolnica to the new footbridge crossing the Vistula. There you’ll find such gems as Marchewka z Groszkiem, which has some of the best Polish food in town, Hospudka u Nas, where you can try some Czech beers or snacks, or Mostowa ArtCafe, where you can discuss the local art scene while sipping on a locally roasted coffee, sampling organic cakes or trying regional ciders and beers.

Resident’s Perspective

Dara, 29, is a writer and museum educator that has called Kazimierz home since 2011. You can find her regularly working at one of the district’s many cafes (where WiFi is abundant, of course) or joining in for a Shabbat dinner at the JCC.

“I love the abundance of cafes, bars, and walkability/bike-ability of the neighbourhood and city in general. The aesthetics of the preserved pre-war architecture brings history to life in a unique way.”

As for drawbacks to the neighbourhood? Well, there is one big one: “I find it very easy to stay in Kazimierz for days at a time without going to the centre of the city, which is the only thing I dislike: that my friends complain I rarely leave the hood when I’m in town.”

“When you live in a neighbourhood like Kazimierz, it’s not surprising you never want to leave! Especially when all of the best places are practically on your doorstep: Some of my local favourites are Cafe Satori for working, which has a cosy window seat and reliably plays peaceful Swiss jazz. I often eat veggie grub at Momo during the day, which is something I miss about the US: widespread healthy fast food — I’m determined to bring my favourite NYC salad restaurant and juice bar to Poland.

Mlezcarnia is a favourite in the winter and summer, where I love warm hot chocolate on chilly nights in the cosy vintage-style bar, and chilled cider at the outdoor beer garden in the summer. I adore the neighbourhood so much that I’m working on a guide called Hyperlocalist that’ll be out later this year.”

Local Digs

Staying on the square that’s the heart of Kazimierz is as authentic as it gets, and staying above the legendary Kolory Café just adds to the charm, which is why Kolory B&B is a great choice as a base to explore the district. If a bed and breakfast is a bit out of your price range, Kazimierz offers dozens of hostels, such as Momotown Hostel right on Miodowa Street, the Free Hostel (not actually free), or the kitschy Good Bye Lenin, conveniently located above a bar.

For more Krakow tips don’t forget to check out our city break guide, our top five pierogi restaurants in the city, or Stuart Wadsworth’s tour of Nowa Huta in a Communist-era automobile.

About Anna Spysz

Anna is a freelance writer, tech journalist and occasional photographer who’s aspiring to be a (digital) nomad.

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The post In The Zone: Kazimierz, Krakow appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

The result is the likes of Paris, St. Petersburg and Budapest are transformed from giant metropolises into models straight out of an architect’s office – only this time the architect is God. Maybe this is where we should write something philosophical about our tiny, insignificant presence on a transient Earth; or perhaps we should just stick to admiring the pictures…

About Anna Spysz

Anna is a freelance writer, tech journalist and occasional photographer who’s aspiring to be a (digital) nomad.

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The post Photo Story: Cities in Miniature appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Krakow’s market square, or ‘Rynek’ in Polish, is the heart of the city. The largest medieval square in Europe, by day the Rynek is alive with flower-sellers, bustling cafes, map-wielding tourists, cycling students and simply people passing through. Open any guidebook or brochure to Krakow and you’re sure to be treated to dreamy views of the square, its buildings bathed in Photoshop-enhanced sunlight, its cobble stones graced with the smiling faces of children chasing pigeons or happy couples quaffing coffee. On Sunday at dawn some of the beautiful facade has cracked, as the stains of the city’s boisterous night remain visible. However this ‘ugly’ side to the Rynek still maintains a shadowy charm, as Keven Erickson and Krystyna Dul discover when they get up early with their cameras…

“We discovered all sorts of happenings, from disorientated drunken clubbers trying to get home to bored security guards that have spent the whole night there on duty. What was interesting though was the discovery of all sorts of traces of things that have happened during the night. Some we managed to photograph before the cleaning crews got rid of them. It was as if we were just there at the transitional phase of two different periods of time, when the night has ended and people go home, the day is beginning and other people are coming to work…”

Krakow is not the only Polish city to boast a splendid market square, so for some panoramic shots of Wroclaw’s Rynek check out this article. Meanwhile you can find more travel guides and stories from Poland here.

About Keven and Krystyna Erickson & Dul

Krystyna Dul and Keven Erickson are a photographic couple based in Luxembourg. Their photography is a compilation of their two different perspectives and their joint experience in portrait, photo reportage and travel photography.

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The post Photo Story: The Rynek at Dawn appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Beelzebub comes in many guises and, according to local legend, the Dark One once lurked beneath Krakow’s Market Square. Besides being a midget, this fellow was clearly bad news for, as chroniclers recounted, he sported a treacherous mix of Spanish and German garb.

It’s not surprising that ye olde Cracovians were a little jittery about what was going on down under the cobbles, because the city boasts an entire subterranean kingdom, an agreeable hang-out for ghouls, gremlins and other gobblers of the soul. Most of the cellars were once ground floors, yet due to the repeated rebuilding of houses after fires, and the constant laying of new roads, they eventually disappeared beneath the earth’s surface.

Since the coming of the free market in 1989, these delightful dungeons have enjoyed a new lease of life. Entrepreneurs have resurrected the spaces as bars, galleries and even swimming pools in the case of a few swish hotels. A trip to Krakow would be incomplete without a saunter down into one of these caverns. But remember, steer clear of vertically-challenged chaps promising pots of gold, especially if they’re wearing German-Spanish togs….

Chimera

Galeria Przyrody

This is one more quiet spot before we up the tempo. “The Gallery of Nature” is a little off the beaten track but all the better for it. Descend the stairs and find yourself in Captain Nemo’s Cracovian pied-a-terre. This is a non-smoking venue, so no seaweed cigars from the Captain’s table. Still, the aquaria provide plenty of oceanic eye candy, and there’s a royal roster of teas on offer from all corners of the globe. A recent addition is an enticing range of bottled Belgian beers. All-in-all a perfect place to go for a quiet chinwag.
ul. Studencka 15

Łódź Kaliska

Camelot

You won’t spot any knights here, nor holy grails for that matter. But it’s certainly worth going on a quest to track down this venue. As it goes, the ground floor cafe and the gallery above both merit medals, but let’s stick to the nether regions for now. Camelot has a beautifully restored medieval cellar, and at weekends you can catch top calibre concerts by some of Cracow’s finest acts. Jazz and Klezmer are regular grooves, and for Polish-speakers, legendary compere Kazimierz Madej leads the wittiest cabaret in town.
ul. Sw. Tomasza 17
www.lochcamelot.art.pl

Alchemia

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The post Going Deeper Underground appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

There’s no denying that the Poles love their pierogi (dumplings). Found in cheap and cheerful cafeterias, upmarket restaurants and hospitable households throughout the country, these doughy delights are an essential part of any visit to Poland. Perhaps somewhat stodgy for non-natives, pierogi are one of the mainstays of traditional Polish cuisine. Baked, boiled or fried and usually served smothered with lard, sour cream, butter or onions, pierogi come in a variety of sweet and savoury fillings. Pierogi ruskie (cottage cheese, potato and onion), pierogi z kapusta i grzybami (with cabbage and mushrooms) and pierogi z miesem (with meat) form the holy trinity but those with a sweet tooth will be happy to know that sweet cheese and fruit varieties are also popular. Seen by some as a drab reminder of Poland’s somewhat austere past, pierogi are currently enjoying something of a revival. The classics still prevail, but they can often now be found alongside more contemporary takes on this quintessential Polish dish such as venison with bacon or chicken with Mexican chili beans. Sharpen your forks and forewarn your stomaches as we take in the best five ‘pierogarnias’ in Krakow…

Zapiecek Polskie Pierogarnia

First up is Zapieciek, located on Sławkowska, one of the many streets connected to Krakow’s charming main market square. Specialising in all things pierogi, Zapieciek is a self-service affair (samoobsluga), meaning that you will need to queue up at the counter to place your order. Trade is brisk and the place attracts a mix of students, grannies and other hungry locals throughout the day. The menu is short and simple, making Zapieciek a good choice for newbies keen to ease themselves into the rich world of dumplings. Zapieciek is open twenty-four hours a day, so worry not should a craving creep up on you in the small hours.

ul. Sławkowska 32, www.zapiecek.eu

Pierożki u Vincenta

Pierożki u Vincenta is a popular choice located in Kazimierz, Krakow’s former Jewish quarter. This bright, airy spot on Bozego Ciala has table service, making it ideal for the cautious tourist wishing to avoid any blushes whilst trying to pronounce ‘kapusta i grzybami’ in a busy queue. The extensive menu features the traditional savoury or sweet favourites alongside more adventurous fillings like the Emporer’s Pierogi with lamb, rosemary and thyme, and Napoleon’s Pierogi with liver and apple. The mixed portions are a good option if a decision is hard to make. All dishes come with a choice of toppings and sauces. The meat and mushroom, and Mexican pierogi are highly recommended. Vincent’s Pierogi are often in demand, so you may have to wait your turn for a table.

ul. Bożego Ciała 12, www.pierozkiuvincenta.pl

U Babci Maliny

A hit with locals and tourists alike, the venerable U Babci Maliny has two establishments within the old town. While both are decked out with a faux folksy charm, it is the larger branch on Sławkowska that stands out with its fish tank and slightly curious nursery vibe. Portions here are large, filling and good value for money; those wishing to walk on the wild side can even try their dumplings fried. The pierogi ruskie are the best in town. Those looking for some liquid refreshment to accompany their meal will be pleased to know that the smaller branch on Szpitalna serves beer.

ul. Sławkowska 17 and ul. Szpitalna 38, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl

U Pani Stasi

U Pani Stasi, tucked away in a courtyard off Mikołajska, is must for anyone looking for a typically Polish dining experience. This family-run establishment has been feeding hungry locals for over 80 years now. Join the queue and be prepared to sit elbow to elbow with diners enthusiastically devouring the home-cooked dishes on offer. U Pani Stasi gets busy at peak times and often closes in the afternoon, so it’s best to get here early.

ul. Mikołajska 16

Awiw Restauracja

Occupying a sunny spot on the bustling ulica Szeroka in Kazimierz, Awiw Restauracja is a good choice for those wishing to indulge. Located towards the pricier end of the pierogi spectrum, Awiw offers a tantalising range of dumplings to tempt all tastes. Fillings range from mushroom with cabbage to the more regal venison with bacon and veal with chanterelles. When the weather is good, Awiw’s outside seating is a real bonus. Look out for the daily happy hour, which sees all pierogi reduced by around 20%.

ul. Szeroka 13, www.awiw.pl

….Pierogi Festival

If you simply can’t enough of the little doughy pockets then be sure to time your visit to Krakow with the city’s Pierogi Festival, in August. Krakow’s Festival Bureau should have the exact dates. And whenever you’re flying to the Poland’s culture capital don’t forget to check out our Long Weekend guide for more food and restaurant tips, and much much more.

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“I like the trams, there is something old, fragile, romantic and comfortable about them. In this city everyone uses them, even the pensioners. I often wonder where do they all have to go? What do they have to do? Some trams are so old that you have to climb a ladder to get into them, that is not easy for the elderly! As a photographer, I thought what do I do with this? I realized it’s the windows, a screen when you pass it, you can’t help but look at it. So I photographed it.”

About Keven and Krystyna Erickson & Dul

Krystyna Dul and Keven Erickson are a photographic couple based in Luxembourg. Their photography is a compilation of their two different perspectives and their joint experience in portrait, photo reportage and travel photography.

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Recently however this neglected district, the former home of the infamous Jewish Ghetto (created by the Nazis during German occupation of Krakow in WWII), is showing the first signs of becoming fashionable again with a number of hip bars sprouting up, some major building projects in development (not least the re-opening of Schindler’s Factory as a History Museum and Contemporary Art Museum) and plenty of artists taking up residence.

On this cold winter’s day, Podgorze’s rough edges, as well as its historic importance and distinctly neighbourhood charm are available for all to see – all sturdy enough to brave the minus 15 temperatures that is. If that doesn’t sound like you, you needn’t miss out. Earlier this year Keven Erickson and Krystyna Dul put on their thermal leggings and set out, despite the cold, to capture the unique Podgorze vibe on film…

About Keven and Krystyna Erickson & Dul

Krystyna Dul and Keven Erickson are a photographic couple based in Luxembourg. Their photography is a compilation of their two different perspectives and their joint experience in portrait, photo reportage and travel photography.

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The post Photo Story: Podgorze Winter Walk appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Contrary to popular opinion, Poland is not located in Siberia. Sure, it gets cold here in the winter, but, as a rule, the rivers do not freeze over. Especially not the Wisła (Vistula), Poland’s mighty artery which runs from the Beskids to the Baltic. So when, during one especially frosty week, I heard that the Wisła had frozen, I did what any dedicated photographer would do: I piled on seven sweaters, wrapped myself up in the thickest blanket I had and stayed at home, glued to the heater. Luckily, when the temperature finally crept up to endurable levels on the following weekend, the river was still frozen, so I grabbed my camera and a good pair of gloves and set out to document the big freeze.

When I first arrived at the Wisła’s banks and saw all of the avian wildlife in front of me, I must admit that I had a Holden Caulfieldesque moment; I had never seen so many swans in my life, much less in one place. I mean, where do they all go when the river’s not frozen? Surely Krakow, the city of a million pigeons, cannot have been hiding an army of swans this whole time? And why don’t the swans occupy the other bodies of water in the city?

Naturally, I asked my new companions these questions, and only received blank looks and divided attentions as soon as some old babcias showed up with bread. Upon realizing I was speaking to birds, I decided that the cold must be getting to my head, so it was soon back to the heater for me.

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Anna is a freelance writer, tech journalist and occasional photographer who’s aspiring to be a (digital) nomad.

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