Madrid Archives - Urban Travel Blog https://www.urbantravelblog.com/tag/madrid/ The independent guide to City Breaks Fri, 18 Feb 2022 16:19:33 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.2 Long Weekend: Madrid https://www.urbantravelblog.com/guide/madrid/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=madrid https://www.urbantravelblog.com/guide/madrid/#comments Fri, 18 Feb 2022 10:59:05 +0000 http://www.urbantravelblog.com/?p=1545 Defiant, dynamic and dangerously good fun, Emma Weinbren picks out the very best of the Spanish capital, from the Buen Retiro to the Bernabeu, with plenty to savour in between. If there’s one thing Madrid won’t tolerate, it’s being second best. Situated in the heart of the country, the city prides itself on being the pinnacle of Spanish culture, art and style. Madrid’s buzzing atmosphere, diverse cultural events and resplendent…

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Defiant, dynamic and dangerously good fun, Emma Weinbren picks out the very best of the Spanish capital, from the Buen Retiro to the Bernabeu, with plenty to savour in between.

If there’s one thing Madrid won’t tolerate, it’s being second best. Situated in the heart of the country, the city prides itself on being the pinnacle of Spanish culture, art and style. Madrid’s buzzing atmosphere, diverse cultural events and resplendent architecture – even the Post Office building is a work of art here – more than justify its status as Spain’s capital. Yet this beautiful, land-locked city is often shunned in favour of Barcelona’s coastal charms.

After dark is when Madrid truly comes to life…

But Madrid isn’t the kind of city to take this lying down. In true Spanish defiance, Madrid has refused to pander to the mainstream tourist trail and instead celebrates its understated, authentic atmosphere. From its glorious Art Deco buildings, such as the Edificio Metropolis, to its picturesque cobbled streets, Madrid oozes an effortless style. There’s no need to boast about the capital’s world-class shopping, rich culture or relentlessly energetic nightlife, you’ll discover them when you get here. An easy-going and friendly city, Madrid casually invites visitors rather than demanding their attention. The Madrileños don’t feel the need to talk up their city: they prefer to sit back, enjoy the sun-soaked atmosphere and pity those who are missing out.

Best of the Beaten Track

The buzzing Gran Vía area is a Mecca for fun-loving residents and tourists alike. Madrid’s answer to Oxford Street, Piccadilly Circus and Broadway all rolled in to one, this is where you find the city’s main entertainment. Enjoy a grandiose musical at Plaza de Callao, treat yourself to a cocktail on the rooftop of the Círculo de Bellas Artes, or simply browse the shopping haven of Gran Vía and Puerta del Sol.

Madrid’s more rural charms at El Retiro (Photo credit: Viviendo Madrid).

If all this leaves you thirsty for culture, then head to the Prado and Reina Sofía museums. Art-lovers flock to both in droves to ponder some of Europe’s most famous artwork. While the Prado showcases earlier artists such as El Greco and Goya, the Reina Sofía houses more contemporary work. Picasso’s Guernica is the museum’s top crowd-puller and visitors stop in their tracks to stare at this mind-boggling interpretation of the Spanish Civil War.

When your energy starts to flag, the Parque del Buen Retiro provides the perfect playground for a lazy afternoon in the sun. An oasis of greenery in Madrid’s hectic core, visitors come here to soak up the rays among the park’s balmy trees and landscape gardens. But the Retiro isn’t just a pretty face – cutting-edge artwork is always on display here and Madrid’s performers regularly grace the park’s picturesque paths. Although if it’s pure piece and quiet you’re after, the lake area is best avoided – a zealous drummer will usually spring to life here around lunchtime, with energetic sun-worshippers dancing to the beat.

Hipster’s Guide

Malasaña is the district of choice among the young and trendy Madrid crowd. The eclectic mix of cluttered cafés, offbeat bars and boutique shops is a haven for those seeking to escape the McDonald’s and Starbucks chains of the city centre. While the area may not be picture perfect – graffiti adorns many of Malasaña’s walls and shutters – its cobbled streets exude a quirky charm.

The colourful and quirky Malasana district
The colourful and quirky Malasana district

Calle Fuencarral is best for designer boutiques and independent outlets, while chic bars and cafés lie on the neighbouring side streets. If you’re in the mood for a more tranquil setting, the artistic Café Manuela invites passers-by to while away the afternoon – board games are even on hand for when the conversation runs dry.

Experience & Events

Nowhere knows how to throw a fiesta like Madrid, and every local holiday invites a hedonistic mix of celebratory events, processions and revelry. San Isidro is perhaps the best time to experience Madrid in full party mode, marking the annual homage to Madrid’s rural patron saint. Celebrations start on May 15th, as Madrileños don ceremonial dress and open air performances take place in every corner of the city. The Plaza Mayor is always particularly lively, often playing host to traditional dance and theatre productions.

Two for a euro...
Two for a euro…

The bustling El Rastro market is also a great way to experience a colourful slice of Madrid while picking up a thrifty deal. Traders have set up their stalls here every Sunday for nearly five centuries, attracting tourists and bargain hunters alike. Granted, it may take a while to find a gem among the maze of market stalls, but you’ll soon find haggling can get you everywhere.

Of course, no football fan comes to Madrid without paying a visit to Real Madrid’s legendary stadium. Football is a sacred sport here, but take care if you expect every local bar to be backing Real Madrid all the way. There’s a bitter rivalry between Madrid’s flagship team and the underdog Atlético club, said to be supported by the ‘real Madrileños’. Proudly displaying a ‘los blancos’ shirt can attract more abuse than you may expect.

If, on the other hand, you actively enjoy resolving tricky situations then how about upping the ante and travelling back in time to the 1930s to solve a grand art theft, or heading back to the Cold War to avert a false alarm that could trigger a nuclear war? We already reported on the Escape Rooms trend that started in Budapest, but here in the Spanish capital you can also test your grey matter at the likes of EXIT Madrid.

If slow travel is your thing, sign up for Spanish classes with Expanish Madrid and learn the lingo, in between exploring the city and its culture.

Pillow Talk

The Hotel de las Letras is one of Madrid’s most stylish haunts, designed around the unusual combination of luxury and literacy. While guests are treated to five-star surroundings, including a sleek rooftop bar overlooking Gran Vía, there’s also a relaxing library for when the jet-set lifestyle becomes too much. Despite the cheesy ‘Room mate’ gimmick – each hotel in the chain is named after an attractive slumber partner – the Mario hotel is perfect for reasonably-priced rooms in the central district. With a rooftop bar, modern decor and complimentary fruit at reception, you’ll still feel like you’re in the lap of luxury. And if you’re on a budget, Cat’s Hostel offers cheap and cheerful accommodation, with the best value bar in the city. Naturally the web-o-sphere dishes up some attractive apartment options too offering affordable digs in various central and hip districts.

Fork Out

Top tapas in the El Tigre cider house
Top tapas in the El Tigre cider house

Eating ham is practically a religion here in Madrid, with many tapas bars choosing to devote themselves to various types of jamón iberico. For a taste of authentic tapas without splashing the cash, head down to El Tigre, a sidrería (cider bar) where every drink is served with a selection of the day’s dishes. This is best visited during the week though – weekends can see crowds rushing in for the prospect of free chorizo and patatas bravas.

Meanwhile, Casa Lucio delivers top class Castillian food, serving traditional dishes such as cocido (Madrid-style stew).

And fear not if you’re vegetarian – Malasaña’s restaurants offer plenty of delicious alternatives to ham. Check out the extravagant Isla del Tesoro (‘Treasure Island’) for the best meat-free cuisine Madrid has to offer.

Drop In

Madrid’s nightlife is famously energetic and continues well into the morning, when revellers hungrily grab a breakfast remedy of chocolate and churros. The central district of Sol is a hub of nocturnal activity, with many frequenting lively, no-frills hotspots such as El Sol.

Things get blurry at night…

Alternatively, stroll around Malasaña’s bars for a more chilled-out experience – the oriental Areia and authentically Spanish El 2 De are both local favourites.

And if it’s pure luxury you’re after, take a trip to the Baton Rouge for extravagant cocktails, or Kapital for a bling-filled dancefloor and R’n’B beats.

Getting There & Around

Easyjet and Ryanair fly to Madrid from a number of UK airports and other major cities around Europe, with traditional carriers such as BA, Iberia, Air Europa, Vueling and Spanair also operating routes. For getting from the airport into town check out Book Taxi Madrid to reserve a ride easily in advance online. Trenhotel also run overnight trains from Lisbon and Paris; whilst fast, if not cheap, trains will also get you to and from Barcelona, Valencia and Sevilla within Spain.

More Juice

The Time Out website is packed full of ways to enjoy the city, from the most authentic flamenco bars to the best way to spot a local bargain. What Madrid gives travellers a useful area by area guide to the city, while About Madrid has a number of practical tips and links.

Hard Copy

Guidebooks-wise, Lonely Planet and Eyewitness guides give a great picture of the city, while Frommer’s Madrid Day by Day has plenty of ideas in a handy, pocket-sized format.

Depending on your nationality, a story about a Spanish mercenary out to kill two Englishmen in Madrid may or may not be comfortable reading – however the swashbuckling adventures of Captain Alatriste by Pérez-Reverte is the kind of romp Alexandre Dumas would be proud to pen.

Another hugely enjoyable epic is the Manuscript Found in Saragossa, a bizarre series of stories within stories set in Spain by the eccentric Polish Count Potocki.

Silver Screen

For films set in Madrid, look no further than Abre Los Ojos, the original Spanish (and needless to say infinitely better) version of Vanilla Sky.

Naturally, a fair share of Almodovar‘s movies are also set in the capital, such as Women on the Edge of a Nervous Breakdown, which was nominated for best foreign film.

There’s a great list of Madrid-based films on this blog.

Soundtrack to the City

City Map


View Madrid City Break in a larger map

This article was first published in 2010, and updated on 18th February 2022.

About Emma Weinbren

As a language student Emma spent several months living in Germany, France and Spain. She fell in love with Spain’s sun, siestas and sangria and soon returned to live in Madrid. Emma has written for a wide range of publications about her travels, including local magazines in Madrid, Travel Trade Gazette and Visit Wales.

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One Blurry Night in… Madrid https://www.urbantravelblog.com/nightlife/madrid-2/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=madrid-2 https://www.urbantravelblog.com/nightlife/madrid-2/#comments Thu, 11 Jul 2013 13:23:12 +0000 http://www.urbantravelblog.com/?p=6021 Tasty tapas, fancy cocktails and (very) friendly locals. Marissa Tejada learns to say Why Not? to Cock(tails), and ballses up over Bardem… just blame it on the Rioja! In one smooth sweeping motion, the bartender knocks down an archaic Pilsner tap over a tall frosty glass, delicately lifts up a small white dish and promptly delivers both food and drink squarely in front me, before she scurries off yelping rapidly…

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Tasty tapas, fancy cocktails and (very) friendly locals. Marissa Tejada learns to say Why Not? to Cock(tails), and ballses up over Bardem… just blame it on the Rioja!

In one smooth sweeping motion, the bartender knocks down an archaic Pilsner tap over a tall frosty glass, delicately lifts up a small white dish and promptly delivers both food and drink squarely in front me, before she scurries off yelping rapidly in Spanish.

Perfecto. My night out in Madrid officially starts the way locals start theirs.

¡Vamos A Tapear!

I’m in the capital’s central Malasaña district where I plan to fill up on cervezas, wine and tapas… including Madrid’s most famous Spanish omelet, at Bodega de la Ardosa. The Bodega’s dimly-lit square room has few standing tables and, at this point of the evening, no elbow room whatsoever. An impressive beer bottle collection lines its walls and shares space with yellowing posters that may even date back to its opening in 1892. My group is snuggled at one end of the bar, lucky to have squeezed into a prime spot where we can comfortably reach for our Rioja filled wine glasses and share delicious tapas, the small snack-sized plates synonymous with eating out in Spain. I discover why the place gained tortilla de patatas fame: the eggs are scrambled up to perfection, oozing with creamy pockets of potatoes and onion.

Madrid nightlife, tapas bars
Kicking off the night in true Madrid style with tapas and cervezas

Then, he catches my attention. Behind the bar, at eye-level, is a rectangular wall opening, revealing a talking head (see photo above!).  There’s a bald man casually sipping a beer behind the bar wall. No nearby doors are in sight. How many Riojas did I drink?

“Oh, that’s a secret dining room,” one of my compadres explains with a shrug. “They’ve got one of those.”

I ponder that strange fact but let it slide. I’m told awesome cocktails await us at Cock.

Cock… as in Cocktails

Upon arrival it’s clear that a team of dark suited waiters keep the fancy place in check. With its high wood-beamed cathedral-like ceiling, thick mahogany bar and carved wood central fireplace, it resembles a lovely room in an old English estate.

Somewhere between ordering a round of Kir Royales and figuring out our choice for a second round we find ourselves in friendly conversation with a group of Madrilenos from a neighboring table. They confirm that Cock is indeed an established and well-known haunt for top cocktails and star sightings.

“Like…” I immediately blurt out the name of the hottest Spanish actor I know. My excitement is met with shocked faces.

“Nobody in Madrid likes Javier Bardem,” states one Madrileno named Juan.

The group nods in agreement. A second later they all burst out in laughter and we tap our glasses with a chorus of salud and cheers.

cock bar in Madrid, cocktails and nightlife
Bar Cock: Seriously, just write your own caption…

“Yes, the famous come here. It can have a good crowd, but people of all ages rely on this place for a fancy, good drink,” says Jose, a schoolteacher who is dressed casually in jeans and a t-shirt. It’s what I’ve noticed most guys and gals wear out on the town. Even my cocktail dress seems overdone for place. Jose goes on to inform me: “It’s 12:30. Madrid nightlife starts now and ends, you know, at least at six, if you’re having a good time.”

“But it’s Thursday. Don’t you have to work?” I ask.

“At seven,” he shrugs his shoulders. “We all work but we all need to have fun too. Madrid is the place to live life, be with your friends and make new friends. You can do anything you like any night of the week.”

“So where would you go now to dance?” I’m curious to know.

The Madrilenos suggest a place around corner and that we should all go together. Why not?

I Wanna Take You To Gay Bar!

Turns out, that’s the name of the club.

We’re still in Chueca, which is Madrid’s gay district. Smoke wafts between me and the club’s metal door entrance where folks are puffing furiously on their cigs in the chilly spring night. We grab our tickets, which include the first drink and head down some dimly lit stairs. The beats of a super dance version of a Black Eyed Peas classic pound the air. This was gonna be a good night.

gay nightlife madrid. gay bars and clubs
Dance all night… Why Not?

The club is a narrow tunnel-like room bordered on one side by a long, oak-paneled bar. Underneath a curved, classic tiled ceiling a sea of clubbers clash on the dance space in a happy haze. Had I been portaled into a secret Spanish speakeasy?  At that moment the DJ turns up Neneh Cherry and the now obvious man-man couples before me bring me back to modern day reality; I’m standing in one of the coolest little gay clubs in Madrid.

I easily chat it up and dance with the locals. Jaime, a medium-built gay guy with a closely-cropped beard, informs me of two fantastic things. The turquoise color of my dress compliments my skin and that the basement bar is Madrid’s best kept secret.

“No chance not to dance,” he croons.

Then, INXS blasts through the speakers and the crowd starts up again. With one hand Jaime delves deeper into the dance floor as he pumps his other hand furiously in the air, “I love this song!”

There’s love here among a fair share of hetero Madrilenos and Madrilenas too, like our new group of friends that lead us here in the first place and are easily losing themselves to the music.  How could anyone resist the free, fun and easy vibe?

Too Many D!cks On The Dancefloor

Back out in the streets, we pass some street vendors selling beers and drinks out of cardboard boxes as we return to Malasaña. There we come up on the club, BarCo which is complete with line that looks way too long to tolerate at 3:30am, one that takes up too much of the cobblestone street. I soon discover it’s just a bunch of smokers getting their nicotine fix. We shuffle past them and the four four beat of house music beckons us in. However, the tightly packed crowd, bathed in the random glow of bright blue lights, is like an ocean of locked bodies that has the sole purpose of preventing me to reach the bar a few meters away. A surprise ambush greets me as I make my first attempt.

late night clubbing in Madrid Spain
Estais esperando amigos?

A tall, blonde guy bends down to yell in my ear, “So nice to see girls.”

“Come again?” I ask, just as loud, tiptoeing to be heard. That’s a weird pick up line. I look around. A live music club in the early evening, BarCo transforms into pretty happening dance club for 20-30 somethings. I realize this night attracted a favorable ratio of young men – or unfavorable depending on your point of view. The immediate swoop at entrance is beginning to make sense. Turns out tall Tobias from Austria and his Canadian friend, Dan are expats working in Madrid.

“The nightlife here is unreal. You can get carried away though,” explains Dan nodding his head in disbelief. “It’s just that people in Madrid are so open and friendly. Life here is tireless… I mean it’s a weekday. I gotta wake up in a few hours but I don’t care!”

At some point, my heels start to dig, punishing my dancing feet. We ramble out of the still crowded BarCo to say our goodbyes. The crisp cold air refreshes me as I walk off from the group toward my rented apartment off Gran Via. The blue sky lightens up as I notice the lines of Madrilenos still puffing their smokes and continuing the party out in the narrow street, just out of reach from the taxis that inch by. The drivers crane their necks, searching for fares as the sun breaks through. After all, in Madrid, it’s just another night and morning out on the tiles.

Madrid parties and dancing
It ain’t no good if there’s too much wood…

On your way to Madrid? Check out Urban Travel Blog’s weekend guide to the Spanish capital. Meanwhile for more blurry nights in some of the world’s wildest cities check out the Editor’s nocturnal adventures in Vilnius, Ben Rhodes’ boozy brunch and all-night partying in Dubai, and James Pengelley’s random revelry in Bogota.

About Marissa Tejada

Marissa Tejada is an American journalist, travel writer and author living in Athens. She's a regular contributor to Forbes Travel, Wine Enthusiast, GQ and Urban Travel Blog. Full bio here.

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