There is no other place in Rome that sums up the untouristy soul of the city better than Testaccio. If you find yourself baffled at the foot of an ancient pyramid neighbouring some fascist architecture, don’t even think you’ve seen the district’s quirkiest part. Eyes open wide, take an intense dip into its bohemian heart – especially the artistic den dug under a heap of amphorae, a multipurpose area inside the old slaughterhouse complex, and a certain graveyard that’s non-Catholic for a good reason. Don’t worry if these and other marvels tax your stomach — the district happens to boast Rome’s biggest organic market, bustling with hip local eateries which, by night, give way to the city’s alternative nightlife scene.

In those days buffaloes climbed the paved road up the banks of the river Tiber, grunting under the load of marble, grain and wine until a brawny Roman relieved them from their burden…

The district owes its eclectic trait to the ancient river port of Emporium built in the 2nd century BC to cope with Rome’s ever expanding trade. In those days buffaloes climbed the paved road up the banks of the river Tiber, grunting under the load of marble, grain and wine until a brawny Roman relieved them from their burden, stored inside the amphorae. These sizeable jugs, once worn out, would be broken into pieces and clumped year by year, to finally take the shape of the hill of shards — aka Monte Testaccio, or Monte dei Cocci, the most famous landmark in the district and now home to several bars and cafes (see the By Day section below). The surviving quay of the port, with steps and ramps towards the river, and even the mooring holes, makes for a good urban spotter’s quest along Lungotevere Testaccio.

Following the decline of the Roman Empire and their clattered amphorae, just like its hill of shards in the past, the area continued to accumulate social waste – dropouts relegated by refined society from within the city walls – namely the poor, the batty, and the rebellious. Later, 19th-century industrialisation transformed Testaccio into a traditional working-class neighbourhood, bringing new opportunities to its needy souls. At the same time, the railway, the slaughterhouse and markets, as well as the gas plant, breathed more shady life into the quarter. And since infamy and low rents have always lured the creative, a recent touch of gentrification has seen Testaccio develop its current artsy-hipster vibe — a brushed up version of its character over the centuries.

By Day

Whether you see it straddle the Via Marmorata, contrast with the Aurelian Wall or pop up behind an 18th-century cemetery, the 37 metre Pyramid of Cestius is sure to baffle the first time visitor. Especially since this Egyptian cone doesn’t even accommodate any Egyptian official. The tomb was prehumously commissioned by Caius Cestius, a Roman politician, and simply reflected the aesthetic tastes of the time. For the more inquisitive, 1.50€ guided tours are the only way to explore the excavations around Piramide and they can be booked by calling 06.39967700 (Coopculture, from Monday to Friday).

Whether you see it straddle the Via Marmorata, contrast with the Aurelian Wall or pop up behind an 18th-century cemetery, the 37 metre Pyramid of Cestiusis sure to baffle the first time visitor.

The best lookout up to the pyramid is from the oldest wing of the eccentric Cimitero Acattolico sitting partly within the ancient city walls — all together, a perfect fit for such an offbeat district, especially if you add up a nearby colossus of the Testaccio Post Office. Its architectural style — evocatively named Rationalism — captures the spirit of bygone Italian fascism: the imperial grandeur of lofty size but with an imposing, functionally-raw finish. It might come as a surprise to an unseasoned Roman wanderer, but this rough, block-like formality of MIAR (Italian Movement of Rational Architecture) is celebrated as fiercely as many of the city’s ancient monuments and proudly represents “The New Rome.” For more on Italian fascism try this tour.

Five minutes down Via Caio Cestio sits the above-mentioned graveyard, dubbed “The old cemetery for non-Catholic foreigners”. Dating back to the 1700s, it’s a poignant collection of memories and artisan twists, with the world-famous Angel of Grief sculpture by W.W. Story its hallmark feature. The garden-like alleys almost give an impression of a posthumous resort for celebrities rather than a burial ground — and indeed Keats, Shelley and Goethe’s only son, along with numerous political gurus and princesses are permanent residents. There’s no ticket office, but visitors are kindly asked for a 3€ contribution. Meanwhile Get Your Guide offer a full guided tour.

…this ancient disposal of broken storage vessels is an unparalleled source of what we know about Testaccio’s daily life in antiquity. What’s more, it’s likely the only rubbish dump on earth that rents space to cafes and bars.

Opposite the Cimitero Acattolico’s entrance sits an aesthetically unappealing, greenish mound — the famed Monte dei Cocci, or Monte Testaccio hill. At first, you might feel disappointed and underestimate it — Insta-wise — but mind that this ancient disposal of broken storage vessels is an unparalleled source of what we know about Testaccio’s daily life in antiquity. What’s more, it’s likely the only rubbish dump on earth that rents space to cafes and bars. One of them is an award-winning osteria Flavio al Velavevodetto serving the district’s culinary highlights, such as the coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew), or tonnarelli cacio e pepe (noodles with pecorino cheese and black pepper) as a meat-free alternative. However, the easiest way to sneak into the heart of the landfill — a cave believed to be a primeval wine cellar — is through Antonio Petronzi’s squatted atelier, accessible luckily for just a smile (and heartily for a cigarette!).

If you’ve already digested your first Testaccio food sampling around the dump and have space for some more, or simply everything was closed before Italian lunchtime (something between 12:30 and 4:00 pm), the New Testaccio Market is waiting with open doors. More than just a roofed grocery with artisan stalls, this eco-friendly and sustainable space is also the locus of Roman social, cultural and culinary encounters, spread over five thousand square meters and apt for all palates and pockets. Squander on a pair of funky wedges and sip the guilt down with a chalice of finest rosso or bianco for 2.50€ at Chicchi & lettere — you can come back after lunch for their praised dark chocolate & coffee mousse. Before that, however, you might want to first raise your gastro-efficiency with a fat-burning smoothie at Zoé’s, just a few boxes away. As for the ideological palates, the district’s historical role as a major abattoir left it with a heavily meaty legacy, but the award-winning Mordi & Vai runs vegetarian sandwiches with “Roman Style Artichoke,” that is, steamed with garlic, wine and parsley, and optionally topped with pecorino cheese.

If you prefer to have a guide to deconstruct Testaccio’s foodie scene then you might want to consider signing up for this four hour food tour (or this more affordable 2.5 hr option).

The neighbouring ex-abattoir, a suggestive representative of Italy’s “industrial archaeology” from the 1800s, has long converted into a leading stage for diversity in the contemporary art at both national and international levels. Its focus has been set at an ultra-modern angle offering an alternative, urban perspective on the Eternal City. Here, technology often upstages the classical means of expression and hence, renders the experience more relatable to our digitalised reality. The space of MACRO Testaccio — with suggestively preserved elements — opens up daily (save Mondays) to the afternoon ruckus of the neighbourhood and stays up until 10 pm.

By Night

Roman nights like to start off with aperitivo but here, in Testaccio, this ritual often gets swapped for a quick 3.50€ Trapizzino, a triangle casserole-like street food born in Rome to the Italian culinary celebrity, Stefano Callegari, and his friends. Talking genuine aperitivo — a buffet and a glass of wine/Spritz at a fixed price — as classy as the name sounds, you won’t need a deep pocket either. Popular places like Masto and Rec23 Restaurant Emporio Cub offer locally attested eat&drink menus for as little as 10€. On Mondays, the latter also runs “language and social exchange” aperitivo evenings. As the night gets thicker and the vision blurred, you might either rub shoulders with the local millennials until 2am at Trentatre Loungebar or swing your hips to ethnic or jazz music at Caffè Latino. But before you hit any of Testaccio’s dance floors, maybe you should hear how a group of students from the quarter struggled to sum up its nightlife: “Well, it’s fun, yeah, but… kinda… quirky. Like all those people who come here…”

Resident’s Perspective

Andrea Splendori, 25, lost his soul to Testaccio five years ago. Splitting his time between university and 33 Testaccio Loungebar where he works as a manager, he says nothing compares to this multifaceted rione of Rome:

“I love the cosy atmosphere here; it’s like a little town on its own where everybody knows each other, and yet, you’re in the centre of Rome. The spirit of Monte dei Cocci and the university vibe also keep you here.

MACRO Testaccio, the museum of contemporary art is a cool place too; it has me visiting more and more often. Their exhibitions are something special. I’m also happy to see the district getting rid of its shady past. It’s enough that a bar or a club smarts up a bit and cool people are flooding in. Take this place, for example [33 Testaccio Loungebar]. It’s one of the most popular hangouts in the quarter; I love coming here myself. The clientele is mostly people in their thirties to forties, they come for an aperitivo, to socialise and listen to music. Later, if they want to dance, they will rather head to the EUR or Ostiense district.”

Local Digs

Airbnb’s flags dapple the district densely enough to satisfy a decent range of budgets. Worth considering in a place like Testaccio where having a local included may be invaluable for a richer experience. If you aren’t into Airbnb’s personalised hassle, then the three-star Re Testa Hotel that shares its walls with the New Testaccio Market is a fair-luxury accommodation within walking distance of the historic centre of Rome, and yet reasonably priced (starting from around 70€ per single room).

We love delving into the world’s greatest districts, so if you haven’t yet taken a tour of Harlem (New York), Kazimierz (Krakow), Kadikoy (Istanbul) and North Amsterdam with us, now is your chance! Plus be sure to call by our Secret Seven things to see and do in Rome, and our Long Weekend guide for more tips.

About Marta Nightingale-Styczen

Marta is an independent travel journalist, as well as blogger at Vegan Beauty Travels. You can run into her in both chic and shady venues, as long as there is a gripping story involved.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• Facebook
|
• More Posts(1)

The post In The Zone: Testaccio, Rome appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Like every little girl growing up, I used to love unicorns and horses. While it proved impossible to find a reliable unicorn stable anywhere near Rome, my parents did at least find a horse-riding school, where I practiced riding for several years, until it became too time-consuming to drive into the unspoiled countryside of northern Lazio twice a week. So my glorious career as an equestrian ended abruptly. Or, at least, that’s what I thought until last week, when I discovered that I could easily enjoy a horse back ride a few minutes drive from Rome’s city centre, inside the Appian Way Regional Park.

Although at first I was a bit afraid of climbing onto a horse after 20 years, it turned out that – a bit like riding a bicycle – you never forget how to mount a saddle.

Here, I tried out one of the many local experiences offered by Withlocals, hoping to re-bond with the horseback-rider child in me and. And although at first I was a bit afraid of climbing onto a horse after 20 years, it turned out that – a bit riding like a bicycle – you never forget how to mount a saddle.

The tour took us along the ancient Appian Way, one of the earliest roads that led into ancient Rome. There are several archaeological remains scattered throughout my favourite Roman park: this open-air museum features tombs and mausoleums built in different styles dating back to the Roman Republic. And dotted along the Appian Way, there are precious private mansions where actors, politicians and the wealthiest notable people still live today.

The tour took us along the ancient Appian Way, one of the earliest roads that led into ancient Rome.

Peeking through the fences surrounding the Forte Appio military zone, we saw a tower-shaped mausoleum. Riding farther, we stumbled upon Quinto Apuleio’s tomb and Ilaro Fusco’s majestic sepulchre, a red-brick structure with a marble relief that was build in the 19th century by Luigi Canina over the remains of the ancient tomb.

To be honest, I was more excited by the ride back to my childhood rather than by the Roman ruins. Petting the horse on its neck and feeling its mane passing through my fingers, hearing the sound of the hooves clip-clopping on the massive basalt cobbles – which have been there for 2,400 years – and the birds tweeting from the iconic Appian pines, which majestically frame this rural corner of Rome that is far – yet not far – from the busy city. All around us, Mother Nature was waking up on this bright, early-autumn morning.

But the best part of a ride is always the chemistry with the horse. Mine was perfectly tuned to my Sunday morning mood…

The tour ended at the Rabirii’s tomb, with its beautiful relief portraying two freedmen (former slaves who had been released from slavery thus becoming Ancient Roman citizens) together with the Egyptian Goddess Isis, whose iconic symbols – the goblet and the musical instrument sistrum – are carved in the marble as well.

But the best part of a ride is always the chemistry with the horse. Mine was perfectly tuned to my Sunday morning mood: I stopped every five minutes to take pictures and it indulged in some more grazing, so we constantly fell behind. But, as Horace wrote in his Satires: “the Via Appia is easier going if you take it slow.”

Urban Travel Blog booked this activity via WithLocals, and in fact you can find scores of fantastic experiences on offer via their website, from food tours with a hip local gourmet to taking a spin around town in a classic Fiat 500. To reserve a space on a saddle heading down the Appian Way then you can speak directly with Riding Ancient Rome.

About Giulia Riva

Rome-based Giulia, known to her followers as Giulia Blocal, is a lover of unconventional destinations, street art, urban landscapes and hidden spots, all of which she covers on her blog. More on Giulia here.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(4)

The post Mane Attraction: Horse Riding In Rome appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

My first day back to work after a wonderful summer trip to Portugal and I was already tired of my ‘real life’ and longing for adventure once more. Luckily, besides a tonne of paperwork waiting for me in the office, I also returned to Rome to find out that a brand new Skrill Prepaid Mastercard, topped up with €500 of credit, had arrived in the post. My mission was to Holiday Like A Local, spending the money on all my favourite things to do in my home town – which, needless to say, was a dream come true for a Rome lover and city break enthusiast like me.

In fact, I was so enthusiastic that I didn’t care that most of the coolest places in the city, particularly the small and independent ones, would be closed on this bank holiday weekend – as I was confident that I knew my town well enough to still find a host of amazing things to see and do. In fact, as it turned out, the bank holiday was the least of my problems as a huge storm beat down over Rome for most of the weekend. But that didn’t stop me either! So please pack your umbrella and follow me on my grey but wonderful three day staycation….

DAY #1

Marble & Machines

My first stop was the Centrale Montemartini Museum, a former thermoelectric power plant now hosting an exhibition of marble statues from Ancient Rome. This striking combination started as a lucky coincidence, as in 1995 the famous Capitoline Museum was partially closed to the public for renovation and its Roman statues and ancient mosaics were moved to the abandoned rooms of the city’s first public power plant – where many of them ended up staying. This is my favourite museum in Rome, not only for combining classical art with industrial archaeology, but also because it is always very quiet and soothing, unlike the main branch of the Capitoline Museum downtown.

Being a resident in Rome, I paid a discounted entrance ticket of €6,50.

Moreover, the founding of this classical art exhibition inside a former industrial complex marked the crucial transition of the Ostiense district into an area now famous for its restaurants and nightlife.

If you like the post-industrial vibes of Ostiense district, you could embark on a (very rewarding, I promise!) graffiti hunt around Via del Porto Fluviale, after which you could check out the Non-catholic Cemetery nearby.

Shopping For Serendipity

As for me, I took a bus to the city centre to start spending some money at the few shops that were open during this bank holiday weekend. I went to the Fox Gallery, a cool shop selling posters, notebooks and artsy stuff, where I found a roll of wrapping paper with a vintage world map design, an art-therapy book for my inner child to colour in and a serendipitous book called ‘Sidewalks: a journal for exploring your city’.

Total damage: €27,50.

Gelato To Go

To loosen up after the first shopping session of the weekend I went to Giolitti, one of the oldest and most renowned cafés in Rome, which – despite the ubiquitous long line of tourists – still serves a great coffee and my favourite ice-cream in town (and it keeps its prices low – €2,5 for a small cup. Unless you want to get a seat inside its art-nouveau room, which costs extra).

Walking The Satirical Streets

I kept wandering around the city centre looking for some more nice stuff to buy, but all shops were either closed or too fancy, and so I just indulged in street photography to show you guys the pleasure of even a simple stroll in Rome.

While doing so, I walked past the ‘talking statue’ of Pasquino, next to which, since the 16^th century, satirical poems in the Roman dialect were held. Lately the statue is ‘mute’, but the street poetry scene in Rome isn’t dead: just wait until tomorrow night and you will see!

Craft Beer Garden

Locals don’t eat in the city centre, as it is full of average quality tourist traps, so for dinner I joined a friend in the Piazza Sempione zone, one of the pivotal points of the northern outskirts of Rome. Being my first day of staycation I wanted to keep it low-profile, so we went to a beer garden overlooking the river Aniene, which is a small river that runs across a beautiful natural park. The DeRiva Aniene garden is cosy and very colourful. Here we had a chicken burger and a craft beer for a total of €11 per person.

Rooftop Party

The night was still young, and at Riva Aniene it didn’t seem to get started, so we decided to go to ‘Feria’, the summer festival taking place on the rooftop of Lanificio159, which is one of the coolest post-industrial cultural venues in town. Being a former woollen mill, the place is huge and made of several different thematic areas but, unfortunately, the only one open during the summer is the rooftop of the factory. Here we had a couple of beers (at €4 each) and danced the night out.

For a video round up of day #1 check out my vlog!

DAY #2

Rain Rain Go Away

The next day, when I woke up, the situation was like this:

Another rainy day in Rome… My plans keep changing, but it still is the most amazing staycation ever! ? #myskrillsummer #holidaylikealocal #rome #rain

A photo posted by Giulia Blocal blog (@giulia_blocal_blog) on Aug 16, 2015 at 1:50am PDT

Great! Not only almost every place in town was closed, but also I needed to find something to do under a roof. While my posh day at the rooftop swimming pool would clearly have to be postponed, I made a new plan for the morning and took a bus to Campo de’ Fiori where I visited the Palazzo della Cancelleria, a Renaissance palace currently hosting a temporary exhibition of Leonardo Da Vinci’s machines. I’ve always been fascinated by Leonardo’s genius, and so I really had fun at the exhibition where I could try some of the machines and even act stupid inside the mirror room.

But the real quirky thing about the Palazzo della Cancelleria is that underneath it (and therefore underneath one of the most popular squares in the city centre) there is a real lake submerging a Roman tomb, which you can see once you get a ticket for the current exhibition.

Cost for the Leonardo Da Vinci exhibition = €9.

Meanwhile the weather got worse, and by the time I left the exhibition the situation was like this:

Annoying, but at least I can now show you a completely empty Piazza Navona, which is something very rare to witness, trust me!

Coffee On Camera

I took shelter inside Vivi Bistrot, a nice café on the square, which magically isn’t a tourist trap like all other restaurants of the area. I guess it’s not a complete secret either as there was an American film crew behind the counter shooting a ‘real Italian life’ documentary. Not wanting to be second best, as soon as they left I asked the waiter to prepare something typically Italian for my camera too and he made me a cappuccino (for €1,20).

Romeo and Giulia

As soon as the rain stopped (finally!), I seized the moment and walked to the posh neighbourhood of Prati, which I love to visit in August when all the offices, courthouses and fancy shops are closed. During this time the otherwise hectic ‘hood is quiet and I can stroll along its tree-lined boulevards admiring its beautiful Umbertino buildings (a typical Italian architectural style from the end of the 19^th century).

Here I went to Romeo, a boutique bakery and restaurant by the Michelin starred chef Cristina Bowerman. Usually I eat at the bakery but this time, emboldened by the healthy credit still on my SPPMC (Skrill Prepaid Mastercard!), I selected a seat in the second room, the à-la-carte restaurant, and enjoyed a sandwich made of liquorice bread and fois gras served with mango ketchup, wine mayo and fries, followed by a gazpacho with melanzane alla parmigiana, a classic Campanian dish of aubergine baked with tomato sauce and mozzarella. Despite being a Michelin starred restaurant, here I paid just €34.

House of the Owls

The weather was still uncertain and so I opted for another indoor activity, taking a taxi to Villa Torlonia, a park with three museums, a restaurant and several war bunkers. As there were no tours of the bunkers available on a bank holiday, I decided to visit the Casina delle Civette (The House of the Owls), a very peculiar construction from the 19^th century built in a mixture of styles, with interesting decorative details and architectural elements such as loggias, porticos, turrets – and of course the ubiquitous stained glass windows. The House of the Owls hosts the Art-Nouveau Museum, a lovely hidden gem among Rome’s museums.

#peacocks @ Casina delle Civette #villatorlonia #rome #roma #myskrillsummer #holidaylikealocal #artnouveau #museum #liberty #glass #stainedglass

A photo posted by Giulia Blocal blog (@giulia_blocal_blog) on Aug 18, 2015 at 11:20am PDT

Moreover, while I was purchasing the entrance ticket (€5) I spotted a book that seemed more than a touch providential, and handed over my SPPMC once again:

…and while I was at it I added two more books about Rome to my staycation expenditure: one featuring stories of rebellion in Rome and one about quirky places along the G.R.A., which is Rome’s ring road.

Damage done at the museum bookshop: €41,50.

From Biking, to the Bistrot

As soon as I began consulting my new book, the rain stopped and so I decided to join a couple of friends at Villa Pamphili, a big park in western Rome. Here we rented three bikes (€15 each) and explored the park, from the ‘Casino del Bel Respiro’ and its secret gardens as far as the lake and the wilder area of the park.

Exploring Villa Pamphili by #bike #roma #rome #myskrillsummer #holidaylikealocal #park

A photo posted by Giulia Blocal blog (@giulia_blocal_blog) on Aug 15, 2015 at 8:21am PDT

I used to come here with my grandfather, and so last time I was biking around Villa Pamphili my bike still had its trainer wheels on. This time instead, despite people saying that you never forget how to bike, I spent most of the afternoon pushing the bike with my arms, until I eventually gave up on cycling and sat down at Vivi Bistrot (they have two branches) for a much more satisfying beer tasting, while pondering over the idea of joining the free yoga class at 7pm. (I didn’t).

I Told You So!

For dinner we went to Flavio al Velavevodetto, which literally means ‘I told you so’, from the sentence Flavio is rumoured to have said when he quit his job as a chef in one of the most popular restaurants in Rome to open his own place. At Flavio’s the cuisine is traditional, and as rich and greasy as only Roman dishes can be, but we washed the meal down with several glasses of white wine. Here I paid €102, including two bottles of wine.

Traditional Roman dinner #food #foodie #myskrillsummer #holidaylikealocal

A photo posted by Giulia Blocal blog (@giulia_blocal_blog) on Aug 15, 2015 at 2:55pm PDT

Rapper’s Delight

As I mentioned in my ‘Secret Seven’ post about Rome for Urban Travel Blog, one of my favourite things to do in town is attending a summer event known as ‘Estate Romana’, an umbrella name for all kinds of cultural activities taking place during summer. One of my favourite festivals under the ‘Estate Romana’ umbrella is Eutropia and it takes place inside the ex-slaughterhouse in the Testaccio district. Eutropia is basically a music festival, but on this night it hosted a street poetry reading by Poeti del Trullo (Trullo is an area in western Rome often associated with criminality). And so, even if Pasquino is no longer lampooning from his popular corner near Piazza Navona, the walls of Rome are still speaking in rhymes in the Trullo hood, where seven poets are hanging on walls or on lampposts, their harsh poems written in Roman dialect.

This poem is about a young couple discussing having a baby:

Back at the festival and the night’s poems were accompanied with some traditional Roman stornello (which is a sort of folk song) and two popular folk singers, Lucilla Galeazzi and Giulia Anania, performed several well known songs about Rome, making the crowd clap to the beat.

This is me singing along:

It was a very special night soaked in that genuine ‘Romanity’ that I find increasingly rare these days, as everything becomes more and more commercialised. Normally you’ll only find mariachi bands in touristy restaurants that still play stornelli, so it was great to hear them in this authentic environment. The entrance to the festival was free, but I couldn’t help buying a poetry book by Poeti del Trullo at €10 and I also bought a round of beers for €25.

For a video round up of day #2 check out my vlog!

DAY #3

Arcade Flyer

I spent the morning waiting for the rain to stop, until it was pretty obvious that once again I had to set aside the idea of spending the day at one of the city’s luxurious rooftop swimming pools. Luckily, Rome’s museums were open even on a bank holiday and their exhibits are so varied that I was just spoiled for choice. But before I even left the house, I first downloaded the Skrill app to check my card balance – and when I saw that there were still 100€ left I decided to go back to Prati neighbourhood to spoil myself with another fancy meal and check out a quirky museum over there, the video games museum, where I could play at some old classics of my generation such as Pacman and Bubble Bobble for an entrance ticket of €8.

Having fun at the #videogames museum in #rome #prati #myskrillsummer #holidaylikealocal #play

A photo posted by Giulia Blocal blog (@giulia_blocal_blog) on Aug 16, 2015 at 6:19am PDT

A Fancy Fish Burger

It was time to eat something, so I headed to Settembrini. Usually I visit the most informal area of the restaurant, a library with wooden tables on which you can nibble something casual such as cheeses and cold cuts, but this time, equipped with my still-credit-carrying Skrill Prepaid Mastercard, I could enter the ‘real’ restaurant, where I enjoyed a fish burger with potatoes and a couple of glasses of white wine for €28.

Another Villa Afternoon

It seemed it could have rained forever but, at this point, I put up with it and stuck to my original plan of spending the afternoon at Villa Borghese, and elegant park not so far from the city centre.

Villa Borghese #rome #roma #villaborghese #italy #park #myskrillsummer #holidaylikealocal

A photo posted by Giulia Blocal blog (@giulia_blocal_blog) on Aug 16, 2015 at 10:40am PDT

First things first, I went to the Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre to buy two tickets for ‘Much ado about nothing’. As, even after my extravagant lunch, I still had some credit left on my SPPMC I bought two very central seats at €27 each. The play was at 9pm, so I had the whole afternoon to spend at the park. Villa Borghese is full of places to see, from touristy spots, such as the lake, the Pincio terrace and the – anyway beautiful – Galleria Borghese and some more local hang-outs, such as the zoo, the Carlo Bilotti Museum and the Children’s Cinema.

I opted for the Modern Art Gallery, which displays 20^th-century paintings and sculptures by well-known artists such as Andy Warhol, Van Gogh, Klimt and – of course – all the Italian vanguards.

After wandering around the park as far as the panoramic terrace, I went to the Casa del Cinema (the Cinema House), a place devoted to film festivals and indie movies. A friend joined me there and we ordered one ‘aperitivo’ served with canapés. We paid €9 each, but at least we didn’t have to worry about an empty stomach during a 3-hour play!

Much Ado About Rome

When the play was about to start, we left the Casa del Cinema and took our VIP seats at the Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, which is an actual wooden Elizabethan theatre like the popular one in London. It was the first time that I attended a play at the Globe and I loved the fact that the architecture plays a big role in the show too.

Coming back home after the play, I couldn’t help thinking that Rome never disappoints me. Even under the rain, I had an amazing staycation and the best part of it is that, for once, I won’t suffer from post holiday syndrome.

Click for a video round up of day #3 on my vlog.

Giulia would like to thank Skrill for generously sending over one of their Skrill Prepaid Mastercards enabling her to Holiday Like A Local. The card was a handy travel companion, which you can use as a credit card accepted at 35.9 million locations worldwide, or at ATMs, and which you can top up to match your holiday budget. For more info on both Skrill and their SPPMC head to Skrill.com.

Meanwhile check out our insider tips from Barcelona, when Duncan Rhodes went on Holiday Like A Local… you can check back for adventures in London, Paris and New York in the coming weeks too!

Finally, if you’re coming to Rome be sure to check our Long Weekend guide to the Eternal City.

About Giulia Riva

Rome-based Giulia, known to her followers as Giulia Blocal, is a lover of unconventional destinations, street art, urban landscapes and hidden spots, all of which she covers on her blog. More on Giulia here.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(4)

The post Holiday Like a Local in Rome appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Once you have seen the Coliseum, visited the Vatican Museums and wandered around the historic centre, it’s time to get a true taste of the Eternal city by venturing off the beaten track. From cemeteries full of famous bards to a fascinating multi-ethnic community creating art in a squatted factory, here are seven secret things to see and do that you won’t find in your pocket guide – plus two more honourable mentions to feed your wanderlust – all without having to leave town.

(…and if you’ve haven’t seen the main attractions yet head to the “Best of the Beaten Track” section of our Rome city break guide, or check out the activities on offer with Get Your Guide!).

1# Appian Way Regional Park

If the Roman Forum is too crowded for you, you will love a peaceful archaeological walk through the Appian Way Regional Park, a protected area of around 3,400 hectares, which extends from the centre of Rome to the 10th mile of the Appian way (one of the earliest roads that led into ancient Rome). Features of the park are Roman tombs, mausoleums, aqueducts, museums and a former paper factory now reconverted into a cultural space, but the park is also well known for its natural beauty and its rural landscape. Either make your own way there, or sign up for this E-bike tour that starts in the centre and also takes in the Colosseum and Circus Maximus, as well as the park itself. Or do as I did, and explore the park on horseback…

2# The Non-catholic Cemetery

Proclaimed “the holiest place in Rome” by Oscar Wilde, this small cemetery is a relaxing corner behind the Pyramid of Cestius where Keats, Shelley, Goethe’s only son, as well as Gramsci (a founding father of Italian communism) and many other famous people rest in peace. This is the cemetery where all the non-Catholics and assorted foreigners have been buried since the 18th century, many of them were diplomats, artists or young people who died on the Grand Tour; it is composed of an older part by the side of the Pyramid of Cestius (a non-catholic grave by itself) and a more modern part extending as far as via Zabaglia, which is still in use. “It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place,” wrote Shelley… not long before he was buried here.

3# Metropoliz

Located in a former factory along Via Prenestina, Metropoliz is a “multicultural town” occupied in 2009 by families from many different countries. Art, a necessary futility, entered the occupied factory in the form of several creative projects, from the shooting of a documentary (“Space Metropoliz”, available on YouTube) about the construction of an astronomical telescope made of reused materials in an attempt to reach the moon (a metaphor for a free space, as “the moon is nobody’s and nobody can buy it”) to a street-art museum (the MAAM) where local and international artists have painted huge murals for free in order to sustain a museum meant not for decoration but to open the factory to the city, to speak against the lack of affordable housing in Rome and to protect Metropoliz from prospective eviction.

4# Anti-Café

The one and only bar in Rome where you don’t pay for what you eat and drink but for how long you stay there. It has become the working-place for all freelancers that love coffee refills and indulging in snacks to keep focused. Here you will also find a scanner, a printer and—it goes without saying—a free wi-fi connection, as well as board games and magazines to enjoy during your break.

5# M.U.Ro. Street Art Walking Tour

Organised by the curators of the Urban Art Museum of Rome, this walking tour around the Old Quadraro neighbourhood will show you the ‘graff-side’ of Rome, by unveiling the backstage stories about the creation of this outdoor museum and its collection of murals by well-known Italian and international street artists such as Ron English, Jim Avignon, Alice, Mr. Thoms and Beau Stanton. There is also a bike version of the tour, organized by the association Gazebike, covering a broader area stretching as far as the Torpignattara district. Speaking of which…

6# Torpignattara District

Located in the eastern suburbs of Rome, Torpignattara is a multicultural neighbourhood with a lot of cultural activities going on. Points of interest are the Wunderkammern Art Gallery, specializing in street art exhibitions and public art for the neighborhood; the ancient Acquedotto Alessandrino; the Villa De Sanctis, a beautiful park with catacombs and a mausoleum both from the 4th century; the rationalist building of the ex-Cinema Impero, now on its way to refurbishment. Here you can also find old-style restaurants where you can try the most authentic Roman cuisine and an urban landscape of nice, small villas mostly from 1920s. The district, still not gentrified, is characterized by a village-like atmosphere and a melting-pot community of families from all corners of the world.

7# Estate Romana

That’s an umbrella name for all the summer events in Rome, from open-air cinemas and theaters to concerts and festivals of any kind. The summer in central Italy can be so hot that you will properly enjoy your outdoor time only during the night, better if in a fresh location such as a park, a beach or the river banks: check the calendar of activities above and do as the Romans do.

There are many more cool and alternative things to do in Rome I could have listed on this post, but here are a couple of honourable mentions that I’d hate you to miss:

Bonus Tip: Going Underground

There’s a whole world of secrets lurking underneath the streets of the Eternal city. Christian crypts decorated with the bones of Capuchin monks, Roman catacombs, ancient Mythraic temples and underground rivers are just some of the things you might discover on a subterranean tour of the city. If you’ve got a soft spot for ancient history – or maybe you’ve just been reading too many Dan Brown novels – this highly-rated activity is just right for you.

Bonus Tip: Little London

This tiny zone is just a couple of pedestrian streets between Via Flaminia and Via del Vignola where you feel like you are strolling around Notting Hill. Here you’ll find small houses painted in pastel shades, black fences with golden tips and stone-stairs leading up to the very English entrance doors… this tiny corner of London is the perfect place to recover from the chaos of Rome.

Bonus Tip: The Great Mosque of Rome

A few steps away from the epicenter of Catholicism, there is the second greatest mosque in Europe, a masterpiece of modernist architecture whose interiors are decorated with emerald green and cobalt blue mosaics made by Casablanca craftsmen. Read more about the Great Mosque of Rome here.

Bonus Tip: Food Tours Galore

There’s something on offer for gourmet travellers of all budgets in the Italian capital, starting with this street food tour that calls by five authentic eateries and enables you to try tasty prosciutto, delicious cheeses, truffle tartines, seasonal fruit and the best pizza in Rome! This mid-range experience meanwhile combine tasting local delicacies with a sit down meal at a local taverna. And this rather special activity offered by Urban Adventures introduces you to the produce of small-scale farmers and vintners in the Roman region, and sees you served an aperitivo of organic cheeses and honey, exquisite meats and innovative bruschetta, not forgetting a couple of scoops of organic gelato. Or, if for a more hands on foodie experience why not sign up for cooking classes?

We hope you enjoyed these alternative tips and that they provide you with something a little different to do when in Rome! And if you’re heading over to Italy be sure to check out our weekend guide to the Eternal City, with advice on everything from where to stay right up to what books to pack in your hand luggage.

And if you always travel off that trodden track, then don’t forget to check out our Secret Seven guides to Berlin and London, amongst others.

About Giulia Riva

Rome-based Giulia, known to her followers as Giulia Blocal, is a lover of unconventional destinations, street art, urban landscapes and hidden spots, all of which she covers on her blog. More on Giulia here.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• More Posts(4)

The post Secret Seven: Rome appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.

Main Attractions	Getting Here
Hipsters Guide	More Info
Events & More	Read This
Hotels & Beds	Watch This
Food & Restaurants	Listen To This
Bars & Clubs	City Map

Imagine you’ve been around for over two thousand years and people still come from all over the world to see you and take your picture. That’s what happens with the pyramids of Egypt, the Great Wall of China and Rome. Unlike its counterparts from the ancient world however, Italy‘s capital city is still crammed full of inhabitants who are busy getting on with their contemporary lives, taking the (packed and slow) bus to work every day, whilst crumbling ruins and millennia-old monuments rise up at the side of the road at every corner. Like all modern metropolises Rome has plenty to offer in terms of restaurants, nightlife and entertainment, but there are very few cities in the world where the sense of history, of world-changing events, bloody spectacles and political intrigue are so palpable that the visitor’s imagination can’t help but stir.

The Romans sometimes act like they still rule the world, no matter how long ago Caesar and his cohorts hung up their scutums; but thankfully they are also very happy to help and make sure you love your stay in their city. The savvy traveller should therefore make the most of the locals’ pride and let them show you around. Then, you can choose which level of Rome you want to discover and how far you want to dig into time and history, from the Pantheon temple and early-Christian catacombs, to contemporary street art exhibitions, a night out at one of the biggest squats in Europe and more deep-fried food than you care to imagine.

Safe to say there’s more than enough to keep you busy for a long weekend…

Best of the Beaten Track

There are a few Roman attractions that require an entire day’s perusal, such as the Vatican Museums, which host centuries of artistic and historical treasures. Admission is free on the last Sunday of every month, when of course the queue is massive and the museum closes at noon – so set the alarm clock and be prepared.

As for the other obvious touristic spots, you won’t be able to avoid them. It’s hard not to notice the vast Colosseum or the Altare della Patria, the Homeland’s Altar, the only spotless white marble building in an otherwise red-brown city centre (a white elephant that the locals actually hate). You may want to enter for the complete experience, but admiring these giants from the outside whilst slurping on an Italian ice cream can prove equally satisfying. Since you’re in the vicinity, walk up Via XX Settembre and get to Trajan’s Forum (not to be confused with the principal Forum Romanum), a large commercial district built by the Emperor Trajan and possibly the world’s first shopping centre. Interestingly the word ‘fornication’ is thought to have originated from the naughty deeds perpetrated by Romans under the arches (‘fornices’) of this forum!

If you refuse to go home until you’ve seen everything that the Eternal City has to offer then you might be wise to invest in a Rome City Card, which for a set fee gets you free fast track entry into the Vatican, free access to the Colosseum, and many other sights and museums, as well as free bus tour and unlimited use of public transport.

Meanwhile a great place to book skip the line tickets to the main attractions as well as peruse best selling tours and activities is Get Your Guide.

Hipster’s Guide

E.U.R. is an acronym for Esposizione Universale Roma, Universal Roman Exhibition, and it’s a large district on the East End of the city, commissioned in 1935 by Mussolini. Its hard, straight-lined architecture is clearly inspired by the Roman Empire, and it was supposed to host the fascist regime’s 20-year celebrations which, oops, never happened.

On the opposite edge of town, as well as the opposite end of the political spectrum, stands Forte Prenestino, a 32 acres wide squatted ex-military fortress, that has been active since 1987. If you’re in Rome on May 1st don’t miss their Non-Labour Day 24-hour long party.

By the end of the day, head for a drink and some nibbles at Necci’s bar in the Pigneto area, the favourite place of late film director Pier Paolo Pasolini. Don’t worry if you’ve never heard of him or the Italian Neorealist movement, you’ll immediately connect with the potato puffs and the thick slices of frittata that come with your glass of wine.

Check out our Secret Seven post for more fun and unusual things to do in Rome on a city break.

Experience & Events

Fancy watching a movie but see no point in staying indoors on a warm Roman night? Go to one of the many arena cinemas which pop up around the city during the summer, in squares and parks, where the locals love to watch the season’s blockbusters and occasional arthouse stuff.

On the first of May, youngsters from all over the country come to Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano to (get drunk and) attend the traditional concertone, the Big Gig, organised by the Municipality. It lasts all day long and after a sequence of 20 or so Italian pop-rock musicians, culminates with an international mainstream attraction. For the Romans it’s like going to church. Even if it’s not your thing, you end up going at least once in your life.

The town of Marino, on the outskirts of Rome, throws a weekend long Wine Fest to promote the local produce every September. The main attraction is a fountain that spills wine instead of water, especially for the occasion, and anyone can help themselves.

Even further afield and the small town of Cocullo hosts this amazing festival dedicated to snakes. Not for the faint-hearted.

Pillow Talk

All that luxury and decadence from the past may have you demanding the Imperial treatment. If that’s the case, and you boast the wallet of Crassus or Pompey, choose a 5-star option like Radisson Blu with its award-winning interior decor and pool parties, or else opt for the amazing view of Piazza della Repubblica from Boscolo Exedra. Still trendy, but a bit more affordable is Ripa Hotel; it’s not right in the City Centre but perfect for exploring the hip zone of Trastevere. For a much more relaxed (as in cheaper) stay try the likes of Zolilla B&B and other conveniently located places near Central Station Termini, like Alessandro Palace. For more great accommodation options I suggest you compare prices on all the superb-rated hotels on Booking.com.

If you’re hoping for a more authentic Roman holiday take a look at Homestay.com. Here you can search for affordable apartments, all with a local host to ensure your stay goes smoothly. Book via one of our links and you’ll automatically get 5% off on your stay!

Fork Out

In Rome, there’s no need to formally sit down to have a meal to die for. Roman street food can keep you full and happy for a whole holiday if you wish. This is the home of pizza al taglio, not round but rectangular, cut into pieces to eat on the go. You can find plenty of top quality pizzerias all around town like Pizza Luigi, Doppio Zero, Forno di Campo de’ Fiori, and the list goes on.

But no matter how good, no one can live on pizza, and that’s what the fried stuff is for. Try supplì, fried rice balls with a mozzarella filling; or battered cod (yes, a bit like fish and chips), which is found at its best at Dar Filettaro. And of course it would be madness to leave Rome without having had an ice cream, and you can’t go wrong with Giolitti, while coffee lovers will get a real kick from the espresso granita (frozen and grated coffee) at Tazza d’Oro, which comes with an almost illegal amount of thick whipped cream and could wake up a hibernating bear. Finally, if you’re aiming to impress your date, take them to a restaurant where Italian food doesn’t mean checked tablecloths and loud waiter. La Rosetta’s menu offers a modern take on traditional fish dishes like “spaghetti alle vongole” (pasta with clams, parsley and a touch of white wine).

For a guided introduction into Italian gastronomy check out the full range of culinary activities on Get Your Guide.

Drop In

Rome’s nightlife is odd and, without any good tips, you may think that the Eternal City’s party was over centuries ago. In the summer most people prefer to just hang out outside instead of spending the evening in pubs and clubs. When it’s cold, the best of said clubs are sometimes hard to find. But here we come to the rescue. At Brancaleone, which is more a cultural centre than a club, you’ll find some serious electronic music from international DJs, a generally packed, and very dark, dancefloor and an upstairs chill-out area with a café and exhibitions.

More electronic music, though in a more polished environment, is what you get at Goa Club, while the top night out on the gay scene is Muccassassina, at Qube. Be warned, concepts such as “personal space” and “privacy” mean nothing there. For vintage fans, it’s worth checking out Micca Club, a refurbished dugout turned into a totally stylish club devoted to 60’s music, burlesque shows and Sunday flea markets.

Getting There & Around

Many, albeit not all, roads lead to Rome. From London (Stansted), Manchester, Edinburgh, Dublin and many more European destinations (such as Madrid, Budapest and Krakow), you can choose the cheap Ryanair way to Ciampino airport and then take a coach to Termini station. Or you fly directly to the main airport of Fiumicino with any of the major airlines, including EasyJet. Once you’ve touched down on terra firma, the Leonardo Express train will take you to one of the main city stations, or you can get a cab from the rank or, starting in 2015, you can book in advance via Book Taxi Rome.

More Juice

The official Municipality’s website for tourism has weather and plenty of cultural and practical info. For more tips by local experts – especially bars, restaurants and culture – you’ll find Spotted by Locals an invaluable source. Meanwhile The Travel Hack’s Rome correspondent, Michele Frolla, has penned some great advice for first time visitors, as well as some more niche tips, such as her top 5 places to watch the sun set over Rome – essential reading if you’re travelling with your partner.

Hard Copy

Robert Graves’ I, Claudius is an entertaining way to relive the follies and vices of ancient Rome in decline. For something more contemporary you could try the cult detective novel That Awful Mess on the Via Merulana. For practical info there is a variety of guides like Lonely Planet and Rough Guides. At the newsagent, ask for the local edition of Time Out and while in hip shops and bars look for 06 free press, an overall good listings magazine (it’s tiny, so look hard!).

Silver Screen

The Eternal City has graced global screens on everything from from HBO’s Rome to Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita and of course, Dan Brown’s Angels and Demons – yes, you can take the tour.

Soundtrack to the City

Rome – Phoenix
Piangi Roma – Baustelle & Valeria Golino
Ostia – Zu
Nun ce Prova – Cor Veleno feat. Roma
L’orchestra di piazza Vittorio – L’orchestra di piazza Vittorio

City Map

Video Inspiration

Keep Travelling!

Whilst you might imagine Rome to be a little stuffy and conservative our LGBT expert actually named it one of the world’s top gay city break destinations. See who else made the list, or else click here for more stories on the Italian capital.

And don’t neglect to check out our guides to other wonderful Italian cities such as Venice, Verona, Florence and Bologna, each written by one of our expert travel writers.

About Susanna Cristalli

Half-Italian, half-Argentinian, raised in Brazil with stints in both London and Rome, Susana Cristalli has lived a wandering life - and is by no means ready to settle down. As a freelance writer she’s always willing to look beyond her borders, pack her bags and get travelling.

• Mail
|
• More Posts(1)

The post Long Weekend: Rome appeared first on Urban Travel Blog.